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YS624TE (Don't know the year)
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I picked this up for a couple hundred and I think it is an '89. The FSM with my serial number range says YS624TE while on unit itself just YS624T. Serial number is in picture below.

Previous owner didn't really use it much. He had picked up from one of the churches in town and left the gas in it. I will obviously need to clean the carb. New fuel, it is making it to carb but no fire. A few shots of starting fluid... starts up for a second no problem and strong spark. So fuel isn't making it far in the carb. Trying to study up on all the FSM content as I don't know anything about these. My only other snowblower is one of those rebranded AYP Husqvarnas from '08 and while it isn't that well made and occasionally breaks I've kept it going for this long. I've always wanted a track one and seems in decent shape. A little bit of surface rust in lower area behind auger but really minimal. I think it was typically kept in the garage except the last year with previous owner.

I really haven't cleaned it up or anything. Belts look ok but gonna get some spares. I thought I saw a thread about some cheaper Honda alternatives.

Blue Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Paint

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Still researching:

- Recommended blue paint that most closely matches OEM

- Alternate belts (Some use of cheaper Honda belts on this YS 828)

- Aftermarket fuel line replacement.
 

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Welcome to the site, it looks in great shape based on your estimate of the year?
Edit, does it all work? Mainly the tracks?
 
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YS624TE (Don't know the year)
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Everything works... I saw him use it last year and then they left for year and apparently never took gas out of it. He is selling cabin so just wanted to sell it quick as he no longer had a need for it as well. I figured for $200 I could make that back parting it out in worst case scenario. It seems worth throwing some money into considering shape and price I got it for.

Tracks are in excellent shape too.

I am gonna change out all the fluid. Belts looked fine but gonna pick up some spares. Probably tear into the carb on Memorial Day weekend. Might pick up a HF ultrasonic cleaner. I see that mentioned by a few.

Welcome any advice or criticism for that matter....anyone can give me. :)
 

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Your machine has a vacuum operated fuel pump located under the carb. As they age they flow less. Try applying minimal air pressure inside the tank for 10 seconds or so to dribble some fuel past the pump and into the carb. If it then starts and runs 10 seconds, you will know where the trouble lies. If you're lucky, the pump will now be primed and it will continue running.
If none of the above works then you'll have to clean the carb.
Are you using the electric start? Congrats - that's rare on a 624.
 

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YS624TE (Don't know the year)
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks! I will check on that.. I just pulled line off and noticed there was fuel there. I didn't try a test to see if it would flow. It was just a cursory inspection yesterday.

I saw that vacuum pump when I had the cover off.

Fingers crossed there is a rebuild kit available if the fuel pump diaphragm is torn. I've rebuilt them before on snowmobiles.

I was using the electric start to test.

Do you think I am close with this being a '89?

What year did they stop selling these in the US? I've seen a whole range from others from 90-94.

Greatly appreciate the feedback. I'm gonna be working on this next weekend and will report back on findings.

Blue Green Bumper Motor vehicle Waste containment


Saw this on Yamaha Japanese site

https://global.yamaha-motor.com/jp/..._news_eng/pdf/index/229_YamahaNews_E_1986.pdf

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Cabincat - I had a chance to renovate one of these early this spring. It is a match for your model YS-624T (no E, which must designate your electric start). I had kind of figured out it probably was an 1989 but the serial number is only 100105 which is 800114 models before yours, could it possibly be an earlier year. It has rubber engine mounts, plastic tank, and the chute angle control is also backwards (push forward to raise the angle and pull back to lower the angle). Do you or anyone else have a way of getting a closer year of manufacture?
I ended up using Rustoleum 2716 Gloss Patriotic Blue for paint. It is a pretty good match in shop lights or shade but is visible in sunlight. It is close enough if you are painting a complete section like inside or outside the auger box or painting the complete chute, but is still not an exact match for fogging in just a part of anywhere. It also may depend on how faded or not your paint is. After fogging in areas I went back with rubbing compound on everything and got rid of overspray and brightened up the original paint, that helped.
Some parts are available on line, I had to do a valve adjustment and the owner was able to get a new head gasket, plastic belt cover. rubber gas tank mounts and a few other small parts that were needed.
 

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YS624TE (Don't know the year)
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm still trying to search out confirmation on model year.

Greatly appreciate the paint tip. I will check that out.

I will need to check valves myself. I noticed in owner's manual it states to check each season. Do these go out of adjustment often enough I should plan on ensuring I do that every year?

or is there is a recommended hour to check? I'm gonna throw an hour/tach meter on it for easier maintenance tracking.
 

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This was a very used machine, it may have been checked by someone over the years but I suspect from the head removal that no one has ever had it apart from new. So it's no surprise that valve clearance was low. (I had to remove .004 off the intake, it was hard to restart when hot)
Everyone does maintenance different to whatever suits them. I don't particularly check valve clearance on small engines unless they have a 100 to 200 hours on them- that could be a year of use or 5 years. I would check and adjust if necessary while you are working on it now and then not worry for a while, unless something shows up in the running.
 

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YS624TE (Don't know the year)
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll post a video of fuel flow directly out of fuel pump while running a short electric start this next weekend. I may need some feedback if it seems weak or not.

I also picked up an HF ultrasonic cleaner so will likely give the carb a cleaning that route after disassembly.

I was thinking of using carb cleaner with the carburetor inside of bag and then immersed in the cleaner. I've seen some do it that way.

I also have some of this recommended Simply Green Pro HD (purple)... it is supposedly used on aircraft aluminum as well and won't discolor.

Simple Green Household Cleaning Products Line
 

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If your fuel pump is putting out a full 1/4" line of fuel it should be fine. When the gas tank is full it's basically a gravity flow system anyway, only when the tank is low is it actually pumping fuel up a few inches. And a gravity flow system usually has less than a .3 lbs (that's a point 3, about a third or less of one pound of pressure, of course that is defendant on the volume and height of the tank) any more and the carb. float could not seal it off. So basically any flow from the pump should be sufficient. The flow, even at idle will be considerably more that at electric start RPM.
Re: the carb cleaner-- Cleaners with harsh vibration do sometime cause parts to rub against each other, so the bag idea is probably good.
 

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YS624TE (Don't know the year)
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Great feedback!!!! Thanks!

I'm going to throw some synthetic 10W-30 in it. It does look like oil is long overdue for a change.

On the auger gear oil... I see FSM says #90

Do you think some synthetic 80W-90 will be fine?

I have quite a bit extra from service on other vehicles.
 

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YS624TE (Don't know the year)
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I worked on it this morning. Obviously some ethanol fuel was left in this carb for long periods. I gave it an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner. I got it to run though.

Nothing clogged as far as I could see after ultrasonic cleaning but could probably use some more work. I've order all new seals, gaskets as well as all jets.

RPM at high with no load is at factory spec on high ~4k according to FSM and my tachometer.

Looking for some feedback

- It dies out when manual throttle is backed off to minimum

- There are some small misses at times that can be smoothed out with some choke application

- In FSM pilot says 1.5 turns off full screw in

Is the miss a lean condition?

Greatly appreciate feedback

Auger and drive work perfectly

I'm gonna change fluids in next day or so.
 

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Check your idle stop screw (not the jet) it's the screw on top that holds the throttle open just enough to idle, and sets the idle to correct RPM. On just about any carbureted small engine the FSN setting is a starting point, so you can open or close an adjustable idle jet +/- 1/8 of a turn for best throttle response --( so it goes to wide open throttle smoothly and the throttle can be quickly returned to idle with misfire or killing the engine ). Ensure the engine is warmed up to operating temperature before making carb. adjustments. If you find your idle RPM has increased after final carb adjustments just back down the RPM with the idle stop screw.
 
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