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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'm gonna wait for the new carb parts to further work with that area. Probably won't get back to that for a couple weeks.

I noticed the ground plug on the electric start receptacle was kinda wobbly. I took apart and noticed that the ground wire terminal had disconnected. Re-secured and tightened it down. No more wobble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Changed the engine and auger oil this morning. It was long overdue. Also cleaned up and every so lightly lubricated the transmission shaft.

I didn't take measurement on friction disc but appeared to still be in good shape. No cracks in belts. I need to check tension on belts as well as the tracks.

I assume to lubricate the auger shafts you have to remove the sides of the auger housing. That seems to be what I am seeing in FSM. Not sensing anything seized with the play.

Lubricated most other things mentioned in FSM.

I'm gonna change out all of the old fuel lines and other vacuum related hoses as well. I need to take a measurement on the size of it. I'm not good at eying things for size while in the store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I really had no reason to think fuel pump was bad so had ordered one from Impex.

I was going to put the new one on with new carb and keep the old one as spare.

I notice this new fuel pump didn't have the the threaded screws to hold it to the air intake enclosure. No big deal... found a couple bolts and nuts that would do the job.

Got it back together and fire up. Ran great but quickly noticed that fuel was coming out of the vent on the carb.

I thought.. float valve jet stuck or debris... needle looked fine and no debris. After a bunch of experimentation I put the old fuel pump on.

No leaks at all. This things just purrs... full range RPM and can easily run at idle.

What are your thoughts on fuel pump?

If it was flowing more fuel shouldn't the float valve keep bowl from overfilling?

Is there some fuel pressure difference this pump could have created?

Thanks!
 

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Yes, most likely too much fuel pressure and the float needle cannot seal it off. As stated before the fuel pressure should only be 1/3 of one pound of pressure, that is really not a lot. Since you said it did not have the exact mounting bolt setup I would bet it is not a genuine Yamaha pump but a generic or "fits all" type.
Glad to hear you have everything working to your satisfaction. They are really a well built, heavy duty machine.




















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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Any practical way to regulate fuel pressure other than just finding fuel pump that works?

Would a couple inline fuel filters create any resistance?

This is the one I got from IMPEX

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Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Gas Bumper Metal

Wood Gas Auto part Metal Household hardware

Wood Gas Auto part Circle Metal

Wood Auto part Gas Circle Automotive wheel system

Wood Circle Jewellery Metal Fashion accessory

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New or clean filters would not do anything to reduce fuel pressure. Basically the pump pressure is created by the diameter of the diaphragm or piston (whatever type is used) and the stroke (movement of the diaphragm or piston). Speed of the stroke is usually just used to regulate volume. Adding an adjustable pressure regulator would probably add up to as much or more in cost and time than an original pump. I would just stick with the original, or even a rebuild kit if eventually needed, it would have the correct parts, diaphragm, springs, valves, etc,
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I am going to pull the rakes off and lubricate the shafts but are these auger bearings serviceable at all with grease or just use until they fail?

In another thread here it was suggested most are not serviceable

Thanks
 

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There may be a snowblower somewhere in history that was built with greaseable bearings, but all modern ones use pre-greased sealed ball bearings. The two auger bearings and the fan bearing are all the same number bearing. 6203 RS
Since you are going to remove the augers to clean and grease the shafts, just take a good look at the bearings (fan bearing also) while you have them off, you should be able to tell if they are bad or need replacing. They are inexpensive enough that it is cheap insurance just to replace them if they are suspect. Brand name bearings may be $5 to $7 each, and the amount of time it will take to install them will be almost nothing, because you will have the augers already off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
When I have some time I am going to do a pressure test on the needle valve (picking up a tester).

I might need to do one of those various methods with powered Q-Tips and various brass polishers on the needle seat area on this new carb
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
I have what I need to do pressure test this week on needle valve

I'm distracted by my Sunday delivery of my '22 Yamaha Grizzly EPS XT-R

... dealer already told me a "substantial price increases on '23 models" so don't feel like I am that taken with '22 MSRP considering I have been waiting nearly 6 months. Ran the numbers and adjusted for inflation about what I paid for my 2004 Polaris 700 EFI

Frankly I know this is near the end of the run for this model and glad it has the old reliable 686cc motor

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