Had my previous Ariens (Model 1032) for 24 years and changed the friction disk twice and it was still blowing snow when I sold it. It was a grand machine but showing its age. Bought a new Ariens (Pro 28, model 926038) in 2016 and really like this one too. However, after 4 years my present disk is about worn out. Drive plate seems OK, a bit rough for friction but same roughness over entire plate, so I assume it was made that way. Wish I could remember how smooth the drive plate was on my 1032, but I can't. Read somewhere that Oregon brand friction disks are of better quality than the Ariens. Any thoughts?
Ariens new friction disk quality?
Reg
41 - 50 of 50 Posts
Oregon 76-067-0 has been discontinued ...
Drive Disc, Snapper Snow Thrower | Oregon Products
Joined
·
15 Posts
I guess the search is on for another. Darn it!Oregon 76-067-0 has been discontinued ...
Drive Disc, Snapper Snow Thrower | Oregon Products
www.oregonproducts.com
I quoted the Oregon web site. Maybe some aftermarket seller might have it in stock.
Joined
·
15 Posts
I found them on Amazon but 1 of the reviews states the same issue as what I’m having on my deluxe 30”.
Joined
·
197 Posts
Is the friction wheel lined up on the drive plate properly? In the 3rd photo to me it looks like they may not be. Is that drive plate adjustable somehow up and down? Im having trouble trying to explain what I mean, basically draw a line splitting the drive plate in half, does the tip if the friction disc contact this line? May be not lined up, the friction disc is contacted on the turning point of the drive plate and tearing it apart, like a wheel constantly stuck turning.
Joined
·
335 Posts
A lot of the wear on the friction disc is operator induced. Before you go crazy with the comments, I am speaking from personal experience. So, yes, your experience may differ from mine.
Our first snowblower was a JD 1032. We bought in brand new. I was told it was made by Ariens ........ but that is from a JD Dealer that has lied to me on numerous occasions, which is why I don't/won't do business there anymore. Anyways, on that first snowblower, I was told to engage it (both the augers and the drive) and don't keep letting off the drive, then re engage the drive. I was told THAT is what wears out friction discs. Well, I did what the dealer rep said & I went through a friction disc every year. NOT good for me. After 3-5 friction disc replacements by me, I figured I have nothing to lose by doing the opposite of what dealer told me. Lo and behold, I stopped going through a friction disc every year. I only replaced the friction disc 1 more time in 7 years.
So now, when I go into deep snow that is going to make the blower work hard, I ease into it, let the auger clear itself and then gently go further. Our current snowblower is a 2007 1336DLE with the HF 459cc. It has moved thousands of tons of snow and is still on the original friction disc (although it does need changing this summer or next at the latest).
I also know that there are 2 schools of thought on this subject. Some people swear that all the wear comes from constantly starting the blower moving again. But I think the wear mostly comes from having the engine running wide open, then trying to keep going forward when the blower can't keep up with the speed of the tires & the tires are constantly slipping, the getting traction & jerking forward and constantly fighting itself. I have noticed that with the new more powerful engine on ours, that in 1st gear, I used to have to stop to let it clear itself all the time. Not anymore, it goes through most snow with no need to stop because the new engine just friggin eats snow. I only need to slow down when ice chunks are coming out the chute (just to avoid damage to vehicles & houses), or the snow is wind driven & packed so hard you can walk on it without leaving footprints.
Time will tell I guess. The 2007 1336 has a metal frame for friction disc. Our new back up snowblower (a 2021 28" Pro) has a plastic/composite frame for the friction disc. Not sure if one is better than the other or not, in terms of longevity. Using a lower engine rpm (when possible) also seems to help in friction disc longevity. But having the engine running wide open & putting it into transport gear and then quickly engaging the drive and popping a wheelie is probably the worst thing for the friction disc. I'm sure many will probably disagree but that has been my experience. I try to use as little rpm as possible to get the job done and try to be gentle with the engagement of the drive.
Our first snowblower was a JD 1032. We bought in brand new. I was told it was made by Ariens ........ but that is from a JD Dealer that has lied to me on numerous occasions, which is why I don't/won't do business there anymore. Anyways, on that first snowblower, I was told to engage it (both the augers and the drive) and don't keep letting off the drive, then re engage the drive. I was told THAT is what wears out friction discs. Well, I did what the dealer rep said & I went through a friction disc every year. NOT good for me. After 3-5 friction disc replacements by me, I figured I have nothing to lose by doing the opposite of what dealer told me. Lo and behold, I stopped going through a friction disc every year. I only replaced the friction disc 1 more time in 7 years.
So now, when I go into deep snow that is going to make the blower work hard, I ease into it, let the auger clear itself and then gently go further. Our current snowblower is a 2007 1336DLE with the HF 459cc. It has moved thousands of tons of snow and is still on the original friction disc (although it does need changing this summer or next at the latest).
I also know that there are 2 schools of thought on this subject. Some people swear that all the wear comes from constantly starting the blower moving again. But I think the wear mostly comes from having the engine running wide open, then trying to keep going forward when the blower can't keep up with the speed of the tires & the tires are constantly slipping, the getting traction & jerking forward and constantly fighting itself. I have noticed that with the new more powerful engine on ours, that in 1st gear, I used to have to stop to let it clear itself all the time. Not anymore, it goes through most snow with no need to stop because the new engine just friggin eats snow. I only need to slow down when ice chunks are coming out the chute (just to avoid damage to vehicles & houses), or the snow is wind driven & packed so hard you can walk on it without leaving footprints.
Time will tell I guess. The 2007 1336 has a metal frame for friction disc. Our new back up snowblower (a 2021 28" Pro) has a plastic/composite frame for the friction disc. Not sure if one is better than the other or not, in terms of longevity. Using a lower engine rpm (when possible) also seems to help in friction disc longevity. But having the engine running wide open & putting it into transport gear and then quickly engaging the drive and popping a wheelie is probably the worst thing for the friction disc. I'm sure many will probably disagree but that has been my experience. I try to use as little rpm as possible to get the job done and try to be gentle with the engagement of the drive.
2AriensGuy,
I agree that anytime the tires are spinning and catching, it's taking a bite out of the weakest link which happens to be the friction disc. If it's spinning the tires constantly, your in to high of a gear. I to feel that it comes down to operator error. Chains may contribute to this also, spin, catch, spin, catch.
CCMoe
Joined
·
1 Posts
Davepav, looking into this same issue, did you ever figure out what was causing the traction disc wear? Did smoothing the drive pulley surface stop the disc wear?
41 - 50 of 50 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
