There's a long throttle spring wire, is that connected through the same hole as the throttle linkage? It should be. I'd lubricate everything, and re-set the governor, look online how to do that. If this does not work you may have a bad governor gear inside the engine, however I'd remove and clean the carb, preferably soak it in Berrymans Chem-Dip Carburetor and Parts Cleaner.

 

The long throttle spring is still connected at both ends.

I was using liquid wrench trying to get the carb cover screws off. Have sprayed that around the throttle plate area too, bit will use some real lubricant next.

I did find the repair manual for the engine online and have the instructions that I will try the three adjustment steps for the governor. Whatever changed happened over the summer. Running fine when put away and fuel drained for the summer. RPM issue on first startup for the new season, so I hope nothing happened internal.

I have Berryman's and I am familiar with carburetor work on motorcycles, but haven't really figured out this governor scenario. Wrong time of year for pulling the carb and soaking .

Thanks,
Dave

 

Whatever changed happened over the summer. Running fine when put away and fuel drained for the summer. RPM issue on first startup for the new season, so I hope nothing happened internal.

Now that you say it that way, I'd want to take a peek under the gas tank for rodent/wasp nest. Governors don't go bad sitting in storage. If you can indeed manually get the throttle butterfly to turn and cause RPM to go up, it's a tension issue. The governor and throttle push pull relationship is compromised somewhere.

 

Agree, governor's don't change sitting, but sometimes they are not set correctly at the factory or someone screws with them. But you add a slightly off governor with something else, you may notice it.

Looking for a rodent nest is a good idea, but more so on a lawnmower engine as the throttle and governor linkage is hidden behind the flywheel shroud, with a snowblower everything is exposed.

 

All the Briggs OHV 15.50 Snow engines I have worked on have a plate, springs and rods,hidden under the gas tank, where the governor is kept. I've worked on a lot of lawn mowers and garden tractors also and have never seen a governor linkage under a flywheel cover.

 

Removed the fuel tank. No sign of any debris and everything appears to be intact.

 

Welcome to SBF Dave

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your linkage rod is untop of the govenor spring bracket ( the bracket with the multiple holes) and binding the action of the govenor EASY fix . the rod Should be under the bracket like the pic by one bolt short. After you correct it if rod is bowed you can use needle nose to apply a bit of pressure to straighten rod

Great pics btw and welcome to the forum Dave

 

Yup! That will bind the gov up tight! Not much force acting on the gov shaft the plate is attached to.

(I just can't think of anything that would allow that to happen, unless the rod is just so bent that it clears . . . perhaps someone else tried tp "adjust" it . . . )

 

It does appear the link control got to that position on its own. It has a pretty good arc to span over that area and no bends in the ends of the link for how it goes in the mounting holes.

I removed it and bent it a bit so that lays under the governor arm towards the engine. It took a few tries as every few moves of the throttle lever back and forth, the link would pop back over the governor arm.

It runs a little smoother without the link in the way, but still only one throttle setting. You might notice in the last picture that governor spring is now over one hole. I was trying a few spots to see if it made any difference. Changed the RPM a little either way, but no impact on having the engine idle.

Thanks for all of the help so far. Impressive how quickly the ideas are coming in for things to look at.

Dave

 

look at the picture of one shots post. Rod should be straight not bowed or bent. LOOK AT THE PIC !!!@!
I am beginning to understand that you don't understand the why? It needs to be straight and not just under the gov bracket. The engineers designed it to be a specific length. Any bend will change the length and you will have to reengineer the govenor it if you want to use a bent rod.. Straighten the rod or get a mechanical engineering degree.. What ever is easiest. LOL

 

look at the picture of one shots post. Rod should be straight not bowed or bent. LOOK AT THE PIC !!!@!

Thanks for pointing me back to that picture, you have identified the real problem. In the picture below I circled the plate that controls the throttle. This plate is basically stuck towards the engine (full throttle). I can move it by hand, but the link control couldn't which is why it is now bent into an arc shape.

Doesn't look like that control plate is available anymore, so I am going to have to see if I can free it up.

Thanks,
Dave

 

Thanks again everyone. That plate is freed up for now and throttle is working as it should. Everything is back together and test drive complete.

Pictures: fast throttle position on left and slow on right. Link control now straight in both scenarios and properly controlling the throttle.

 

Glad you found out the root cause. Always good seeing rust lose another battle.

 

Glad your fixed up. Your pictures were great