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When I clean mine, the ONLY thing I clean is the main jet. Heck... I need to buy a set of tip cleaners but in the meantime when a cleanout is required, I take a length of copper wire (stuff is about .020'' in diameter, clamp one end in my vice and warp the other end around a stick and PULL stretching it to the diameter needed to purge the jet from crap. So far--- it works
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Had a Honda hs724 that was surging. cleaned everything but the idle jet as a test. was still surging so that narrowed it down. The jet was not clogged but the tiny O ring was flat and worn. I buy 10 at a time from a racing website on ebay so changed out that little bugger and it now runs smooth.
 
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This question comes up all the time here. "My snowblower won't start or surges , runs rough when started " First of all use the SEARCH function to read dozens of similar threads with your problem by typing in key words in search box. There are also Brand sub forums such as Honda, Ariens, Toro etc that pertains to your machine.

In some cases and it took several years to learn this even though I have cleaned and rebuilt hundreds of carbs? ( ya , I have too ,much time on my hands)

REPLACE THE GOSH DARN CARBURETOR !!!!!!!! ( ya, family site )

you know why?

1. Cleaning usually works for us regulars but we are dealing with mostly newbies here. Newbies are just gonna make matters worse.

2. The reason 90% of these no start , surging issues is OWNER NEGLECT! old bad gas and LACK of maintenance.

3. Most residential owners are neglectful when it comes to common maintenance . They will have the same problemo every year.

so just replace the carb with a $15 chinese one every couple years.

EASY-PEASY

To AVOID these issues it's best to ALWAYS use FRESH gas treated with a gas stabilizer like Stabil or similar . Start your machines once in awhile and if it is going to sit for a spell , before putting it away from last use shut off fuel valve and let it runs until it stalls.

It shouldnt have to be said that if you have old gas in the tank , siphon or drain it out before adding fresh gas. Most carbs also have a drain plug at bottom of carb and drain that also.

We have many members here that use these techniques and have had machines for decades WITHOUT the NO START , SURGING issues.

There are plenty of great videos on You-Tube showing the best way to start a snowblower that won't start or surges. Donyboy73 is a good one for instance. Other members will post links to some of the better ones.
Even though I am new to snowblowers. I don’t think the maintenance is any different than maintaining a lawnmower or a chainsaw.
the basic maintenance is use ethanol free gas period. Then if it’s a new engine change the oil after it’s broken in basically after the first 5 hours in my mower it’s 5W30 full synthetic and I don’t think it’s much different than that for breaking in a snow blower. Then don’t store fuel over the off season period! Run it dry and make sure the carburetor bowl is dry too.
change out the oil and spark plug. It’s ready for the next season. That’s how I maintain my small engines.did I miss anything?
 
I don't have a logical explanation for this but I will tell you the following. I don't drain the fuel out of any of my equipment. I use high test and fuel treatment year round, not just for lay ups. I have never had an issue with anything starting after the seasonal storage. Doing this for 20+ years. When I start getting issues I'll change to the drain practice. I have a saw that I let sit for 3 years with the high octane Huskvarna fuel and stabil in it. I had planned to change the fuel in the tank prior to starting but It smelled so fresh I said to myself..... self, what the hell let me see if it fires. It did after a half dozen pulls and it ran fine. I did fog the combustion chamber on that saw and still fired surprisingly quickly. Like I wrote I have no explanation of why I'm not having issues but that's how it is. The pros here say drain at lay up and if you are unsure of what to do DO WHAT THEY RECOMMEND.
Cheers
 
60+years motoring. Run dry those stored in shed for winter. Cycles kept in shop and run every three weeks to keep carbs clean. 87 octane, no stabil. Works for me.:geek:
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I just read the manufacturers recommendations in the owner and shop manuals. Honda built one of the best small engines ever so I trust the people who engineered them.
 
Some (usually older) machines need a fuel tank level well above empty to run well under load. The small fuel head is insufficient to flow enough fuel into the carb when the tank is near empty. The machine will perform well as the carb gradually empties, then will misfire, then will eventually stall.
Try filling the tank before driving yourself nuts chasing down other possible causes.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
ya I always look in the tank to see fuel level.
 
Then don’t store fuel over the off season period! Run it dry and make sure the carburetor bowl is dry too.
change out the oil and spark plug. It’s ready for the next season. That’s how I maintain my small engines.did I miss anything?
That's what I've been doing for years and it works for me too.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
bumped for that catch guy.....you can also use search function for a month of reading.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Carburetor issues are the #1 issue with small engines.....man I could make a career out of just cleaning or rebuilding OEM carbs.

Probably already mentioned in this thread but being proactive , that is , using E Free gas if available , and using a good fuel stabilizer will prevent about 90 % of your problems.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
SO I BOUGHT A NEW CARB AND IT STILL SURGES, ONLY RUNS ON FULL OR 3/4 CHOKE
so Tom......was it a cheap aftermarket carb?

What brand and model is your blower?

BTW, did you read thru this thread and discount every other reason except the carb?
 
so Tom......was it a cheap aftermarket carb?

What brand and model is your blower?

BTW, did you read thru this thread and discount every other reason except the carb?
CHEAP AFTERMARKET, I GUESS BUT THERE WAS ABSOULTELY NO DIFFERENCE IN THE SURGING BETWEEN THE OEM CARB IT HAD AND THE NEW CARB. THE UNIT FIRES RIGHT UP BUT HAS TO REMAIN ON FULL TO 1/2 CHOKE TO STAY RUNNING AND SURGES STEADILY DESPITE RPM AND UNIT TEMPERATURE. I HAVE HAD BOTH CARBS APPART PROBIBLY 15 TIMES AND THERE IS NO CHANGE AT ALL. THE PIOLET AND ALL PASSEGES FLO FREE WHEN PRESURIZED WITH FLUID. MODEL YB5765 THAT IS LITERALLY SCRATCH FREE WITH ZERO WEAR. A 2018 MODEL.
 
CHEAP AFTERMARKET, I GUESS BUT THERE WAS ABSOULTELY NO DIFFERENCE IN THE SURGING BETWEEN THE OEM CARB IT HAD AND THE NEW CARB. THE UNIT FIRES RIGHT UP BUT HAS TO REMAIN ON FULL TO 1/2 CHOKE TO STAY RUNNING AND SURGES STEADILY DESPITE RPM AND UNIT TEMPERATURE. I HAVE HAD BOTH CARBS APPART PROBIBLY 15 TIMES AND THERE IS NO CHANGE AT ALL. THE PIOLET AND ALL PASSEGES FLO FREE WHEN PRESURIZED WITH FLUID. MODEL YB5765 THAT IS LITERALLY SCRATCH FREE WITH ZERO WEAR. A 2018 MODEL.
ALSO I CANNOT PULL UPTHE FULL THREAD
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
CHEAP AFTERMARKET, I GUESS BUT THERE WAS ABSOULTELY NO DIFFERENCE IN THE SURGING BETWEEN THE OEM CARB IT HAD AND THE NEW CARB. THE UNIT FIRES RIGHT UP BUT HAS TO REMAIN ON FULL TO 1/2 CHOKE TO STAY RUNNING AND SURGES STEADILY DESPITE RPM AND UNIT TEMPERATURE. I HAVE HAD BOTH CARBS APPART PROBIBLY 15 TIMES AND THERE IS NO CHANGE AT ALL. THE PIOLET AND ALL PASSEGES FLO FREE WHEN PRESURIZED WITH FLUID. MODEL YB5765 THAT IS LITERALLY SCRATCH FREE WITH ZERO WEAR. A 2018 MODEL.
if you're gonna yell at the GOT...........
 
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