Yes, if it was mine, I would shim it back to spec to allow a smooth motion with no slapping slop in the system. It's evident there is wear in the bushings or it's missing a shim. I can't believe Ariens told you that that slapping slop back and forth is normal .... I would probably use a new brash bushing, hard nylon washer, etc. ... you really don't want to use a steel washer that could possibly damage the axle, case or a carrier housing.

btw, is it me or does that rear axle look skewed.

 

There is no side play in the drive axle on my 2022 Pro RapidTrak Model 926084. There is a bushing (part # 05501413 bushing SLV 1.062 x 1.228 x 0.268) between the differential and the chassis. This is the bushing that has to be lifted in order to replace the short right axle into the differential. There are different versions of that bushing depending on model. All Auto-Turn models seem to have a bushing between differential and chassis.

 

It doesn't look normal to me too.
I just wanted to say that for your first video it came out great.

 

~ It's evident there is wear in the bushings or it's missing a shim. ~

Actually, there is no wear. The displaced grease on the small gear atop the diff gear show the evidence of "throw" of the diff gear itself.
It was like this from new and went back together in the same fashion.

~ I can't believe Ariens told you that that slapping slop back and forth is normal .... ~

They told me that "play" is normal. I did not send them this video as I had not made it (would have offered to forward to them if it were done.)
The question is this play (slop) normal. Indications (grease on gear evidence) is telling me it is normal.
Wondering if I should call Ariens again and offer to send the video for a second opinion?

~btw, is it me or does that rear axle look skewed.~

It is not skewed. That is the alignment/ tensioner axle for the rear idler wheels.
When the tracks are returned and adjusted properly it will not appear that way.
That axle is just "hanging" out as there is nothing (tracks) to keep them in position.

There is no side play in the drive axle on my 2022 Pro RapidTrak Model 926084. There is a bushing (part # 05501413 bushing SLV 1.062 x 1.228 x 0.268) between the differential and the chassis. This is the bushing that has to be lifted in order to replace the short right axle into the differential. There are different versions of that bushing depending on model. All Auto-Turn models seem to have a bushing between differential and chassis.

With the RapidTrak, is there only 1 bearing on each side? I am not familiar with it and correct me if I am wrong...but the RT is more similar to a wheeled model with respect to the bearing & shafts exit at drive wheel/ gear. That track assembly is different from my tracked one (which is not the Rapid Track.)

The bushing on my model are not between the diif and the chassis... it has a pair of bearings on each side and the bushing sleeve (1.012 x 1.125 x 1.000) is between the bearings.
The bushings show no signs of wear.

#7= bearings within flange mount
#9= bushing sleeve

I was kinda' hoping someone here has the same model and cud verify the side- to- side play because evidence I see points to it being this way from the factory.

(^--not mine, stock image from the web)

 

Actually, there is no wear. The displaced grease on the small gear atop the diff gear show the evidence of "throw" of the diff gear itself.
It was like this from new and went back together in the same fashion.



They told me that "play" is normal. I did not send them this video as I had not made it (would have offered to forward to them if it were done.)
The question is this play (slop) normal. Indications (grease on gear evidence) is telling me it is normal.
Wondering if I should call Ariens again and offer to send the video for a second opinion?



It is not skewed. That is the alignment/ tensioner axle for the rear idler wheels.
When the tracks are returned and adjusted properly it will not appear that way.
That axle is just "hanging" out as there is nothing (tracks) to keep them in position.



With the RapidTrak, is there only 1 bearing on each side? I am not familiar with it and correct me if I am wrong...but the RT is more similar to a wheeled model with respect to the bearing & shafts exit at drive wheel/ gear. That track assembly is different from my tracked one (which is not the Rapid Track.)

The bushing on my model are not between the diif and the chassis... it has a pair of bearings on each side and the bushing sleeve (1.012 x 1.125 x 1.000) is between the bearings.
The bushings show no signs of wear.

#7= bearings within flange mount
#9= bushing sleeve
View attachment 216297

I was kinda' hoping someone here has the same model and cud verify the side- to- side play because evidence I see points to it being this way from the factory.

View attachment 216299
(^--not mine, stock image from the web)

While the older design of your track system is different to the RapidTrak, The components are a lot alike. There are two bearings on each side, one for the track frame and one for the chassis. Since you have Auto-Turn there needs to be a bushing between the Auto-Turn diff and the chassis. You have the axle side play because that bushing is missing. All the Auto-Turn differentials have the bushing on the inside of the chassis between the chassis and differential.

 

Mine does not have a bushing per se between the diff and the chassis. There are 2 brass washers about 1/8" (~1/4" total) in that location. This 1/4" play is consultant on both sides.
I believe those washers are there to prevent the diff from contacting the bolts that fasten the bearing flange housing.

Even if there was a wider spacer there (bushing or washer) it would push the diff closer to gear chain. The way to increase the distance at the diff/ chain would be to increase the space at the bushing on the outside between the 2 bearings. If that 1/4" movement was not there (wider bushing) then it would eliminate the play and add distance between the diff and the chain. But as stated, the grease evidence shows this is how I have been operating it since new.

 

Your pics are excellent and show your setup very well.

I agree that the two washers between differential and chassis are correct, I called them a bushing since that is the purpose they serve. The bushing between the two bearings appears too narrow or the outer bearing on the track frame is not positioned correctly (but looks correct from my memory). On the RapidTrak the spacing of the track carrier plates is controlled by a steel bar attached between the insides of the 2 track frames close to the drive axle location. The bushings between the two bearings on each side are held tightly so no play where your last pic shows 1/4" of play. The drive wheel hub fits into the outer bearing, so almost all play is eliminated.

How is your bar connecting the two track support plates mounted. The bar attachment may be too long so the plates are too far apart creating the 1/4" free play. If that bar is correctly positioned then perhaps a washer on each side of the two bushings would eliminate excess free play. I will check to see if I have pics of my RapidTrak track subframe with the bar attached.

On a wheeled Ariens with Auto-Turn there are washers between the wheel hub and bushing/bearing on chassis for axle to control side to side axle movement. There is just a small gap to allow some side to side movement of the axle.

 

I have 2 Pro 28's, 926038 units.....

set up is the same inside the chassis.

2 ZINC plated washers on the right side of the diff. why? Unsure, as I have noticed that I reinstalled 1 washer on each side upon reassembling my latest unit I serviced (greased auto diff--and it made a HUGE difference in the diff action)......so You could try putting 1 washer on each side of the diff and see how that changes anything....

also, make sure the axel that slides into the diff is completely seated properly....I assume you know that because you need to reinstall the c clip on the end of the axel. I have to wiggle things around sometimes to get that axel in fully....and sometimes those washers are in the way.

In the Past, I think Town mention a roll pin that had to be knocked out, But I didnt have that on my units..all came apart easily....the way I did it at least.



I was watching the thread on your bearing change......that size bearing was a direct fit? ariens Hides that bearing number--and tries to sell the whole flange i see.

 

I would make sure the splines of the axels are fully seated into the diff...and the outside right axel is firmly in place and c clip on nice...

if thats all installed nice, then something else (outside the chassis) may be the issue..... go over the basics. I wouldnt run the machine with that type of slop.

Im going to go back into mine and re-examine the 2 washers on the right side of the diff......., But I dont have any slop...nor rubbing.


you can buy washers if that tightens you up too........

---------------------
I Added a washer on my crankshaft to better align my belt set up on the auger, its Perfect now. There is a difference on some engines on the step off on the crank from the block that affects the pulley alignment...after i looked really close. Briggs 420 is diff than a honda gx390--and a 420 simpson eng......so they aint all the same.


its the little things.....

 

i think you may be overthinking things. take into considerations the tracks will limit how much it can move side to side and you are better off to have some side to side play since you are turning a gear that turns the track which is much different than having it drive wheels directly and to tell the truth i have seen more slop than that on some wheeled machines.

 

Update:
I sent the video to Ariens Co. and they indicated that the play is normal.

Their opinion to my concern of the close tolerance of chain- to- diff would have happened already in the past 6 years of use if it were an issue.

They also provided a part number for a washer if I wanted to lessen the slop.
It was never a concern for me not knowing the conditions until I got this deep into maintenance repairs (ignorance was bliss.)

I will wrap up this project and install the tracks this weekend but keep an eye on it.

 

good news. I would just go over it 1 more time rechecking basics.....

also......I dont know If you saw where I took my Diff( 2 diff units) apart and put fresh grease in them and it makes a tremendous difference. that crap inside there is dry and looks useless.

its pretty easy.

 

To put a wrap on this one...

I did not do any further work/ maintenance to the diff and put the tracks back on, added oil and gas and powered the Ariens up. The new friction disc seems to have a lot better response- previously, first (gear) speed was slow to react.

Oh, here is a tip of what NOT to do (I am sure y'all already know this)...

When I got it running I wanted to ensure the auger was working so I put a bungee on the correct lever...
Yep, auger turning, maybe I can spay some sno -jet chute lube on the augers since they were turning thinking I could get better coverage (no, I did net get hands or other caught)..

Got the can out and walked up to the machine figuring I would start with the chute itself.
BAD move... all that "wind" from the impeller blew any spray right back into me face!

Step 2, turn off machine, spray lube liberally on all surfaces of the auger and chute.