I decided to document a repair on a blower I recently pinched from a seller. Let's make content!
This LCT engine would surge (rev up and rev down) on open choke, and would only idle fine with choke (the second to last notch before a total closed choke). Upon applying the auger, it would starve and almost die.
I don't waste time on replacing the fuel or checking the plug or disturb the throttle/governor or futile attempts to "tune" an otherwise non-adjustable carb. So many folks try all that first, yet still end up pulling the carb. All roads lead to Rome.
Time is money. I get right on it.
Blowers with LCT engines are by far the easiest of OHV's to get access to the carb: 4 bolts off a muffler shield, 4 bolts off a shroud, one choke dial pulled up. Powermore's require more stuff off. Briggs' plastic shrouds are just a PITA.
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I don't use a Vise-Grip which chews up the fuel line or a screwdriver to score up the barb in prying the line off. Otherwise the fuel line will drool around a damaged barb, needing gasket sealer and a tighter hose clamp. Instead, heating up the line so hands can still touch it is all it takes to wiggle it off. I suggest using a personal hairdryer to prevent damage and injury that may come from a heat gun.
The primer hose plastic barb is even more delicate. That hose is easy to replace so I sacrifice it by cutting it.
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Unlike older carbs with hooks and Z-bends in linkage, LCT ones are removed while the carb is still in place. Closing the throttle lets me lift up the link out of the way. Carefully unhook the spring.
Now I can work indoors.
TIME PASSED: 15 MINUTES.
Before removing the pilot jet that is wedged under the idle screw, note how much it pokes out to push the throttle. I don't figure out how many turns-out it is in fear of stripping out a screw made of plastic. Since someone already played with the screw on this Huayi, I measured 3.0mm on a new Stens 520-356.
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Ultrasonic cleaning only needs hot tap water with a shot of ultrasonic degreaser.
TIME PASSED: 45 MINUTES.
After 30 mins, the ultrasonic does a fantastic job. No solvents. No cleanout wires to poke passageways.
![Image]()
Parts are dried in a minute with blasts of compressed air from my shop air compressor. Work those holes.
The o-rings on the pilot jet will be clean and grippy and may not allow it from properly seating. Use a bit of dish soap on the o-rings to seat the pilot jet back into the carb.
![Image]()
The bowl is oriented so the drain bolt is exposed for easy side access.
Give the new primer line an extra inch for more slack before reassembly.
![Image]()
TIME PASSED: ONE HOUR.
With fresh fuel treated with Sta-Bil and Seafoam, it fired up on the first pull.
A Treysit sirometer (Briggs & Stratton 19200 Tachometer) tells me it always had a correct throttle that I never had to mess with.
![Image]()
And of course, it's one thing after another.
![Image]()
This LCT engine would surge (rev up and rev down) on open choke, and would only idle fine with choke (the second to last notch before a total closed choke). Upon applying the auger, it would starve and almost die.
I don't waste time on replacing the fuel or checking the plug or disturb the throttle/governor or futile attempts to "tune" an otherwise non-adjustable carb. So many folks try all that first, yet still end up pulling the carb. All roads lead to Rome.
Time is money. I get right on it.
Blowers with LCT engines are by far the easiest of OHV's to get access to the carb: 4 bolts off a muffler shield, 4 bolts off a shroud, one choke dial pulled up. Powermore's require more stuff off. Briggs' plastic shrouds are just a PITA.
I don't use a Vise-Grip which chews up the fuel line or a screwdriver to score up the barb in prying the line off. Otherwise the fuel line will drool around a damaged barb, needing gasket sealer and a tighter hose clamp. Instead, heating up the line so hands can still touch it is all it takes to wiggle it off. I suggest using a personal hairdryer to prevent damage and injury that may come from a heat gun.
The primer hose plastic barb is even more delicate. That hose is easy to replace so I sacrifice it by cutting it.
Unlike older carbs with hooks and Z-bends in linkage, LCT ones are removed while the carb is still in place. Closing the throttle lets me lift up the link out of the way. Carefully unhook the spring.
Now I can work indoors.
TIME PASSED: 15 MINUTES.
Before removing the pilot jet that is wedged under the idle screw, note how much it pokes out to push the throttle. I don't figure out how many turns-out it is in fear of stripping out a screw made of plastic. Since someone already played with the screw on this Huayi, I measured 3.0mm on a new Stens 520-356.
Ultrasonic cleaning only needs hot tap water with a shot of ultrasonic degreaser.
TIME PASSED: 45 MINUTES.
After 30 mins, the ultrasonic does a fantastic job. No solvents. No cleanout wires to poke passageways.
Parts are dried in a minute with blasts of compressed air from my shop air compressor. Work those holes.
The o-rings on the pilot jet will be clean and grippy and may not allow it from properly seating. Use a bit of dish soap on the o-rings to seat the pilot jet back into the carb.
The bowl is oriented so the drain bolt is exposed for easy side access.
Give the new primer line an extra inch for more slack before reassembly.
TIME PASSED: ONE HOUR.
With fresh fuel treated with Sta-Bil and Seafoam, it fired up on the first pull.
A Treysit sirometer (Briggs & Stratton 19200 Tachometer) tells me it always had a correct throttle that I never had to mess with.
And of course, it's one thing after another.
