Track or wheeled?

If its track then check the play between part # 22 and 3, if they are new then they shouldnt have play but if they are old then part # 3 might be worn causing it to slip inside the gear.

 

It’s tracked and yes those parts are new.

 

Silly question but did you make sure you moved the transmission to "engaged" by the foot pedal?

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Throwing out the welcome mat for your first post...Sup'

 

Yes have double checked that it’s in engaged.

 

Is the output shaft on the hydro trans spinning when you engage the drive?

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good question.

if it doesn't then perhaps he has an air bubble in hydrostatic tranny. easy to bleed .

also, is the F/R cable connected to directional arm on the tranny and is it moving that arm?

 

I was wondering about that. I haven't gotten to own a hydrostatic machine (yet!), but I've heard about air bubbles causing issue with no-movement, and needing to be bled before they'll move properly.

At least for some machines, I think I've heard about a process like cycling a few times from full-forward to full-backwards speed?

 

im not sure if your blowers transmission problems are fixable. im going to do this to my Honda here soon. this video is a good watch.

 

even if the transmission lever is in engaged position if the clip pin broke or fell off it will not move that lever in and out of tranny.

I always check that then check that drive shaft to see if it moves in drive. if not then bleed the system. the oil in the reservoir can look okay but if there is air in the system, you ain't going anywhere.

I don't know about any other Honda people but these hydrostatic trannies very rarely have a total failure.

if everything else checks out it is usually one of the seals that pushed out and you lost fluid, thereby creating an air bubble. fairly easy to bleed system but that may come later.

if that output shaft does move then you are back to square one with your rightside final drive gearbox and it will have to be taken apart again. I have heard cases where a washer was not installed but usually in that case the gears will still mesh a little and you will get a clicking or some jerking motion.

was a new axle with new pin installed?

 

Yes we’ve checked all that. Just finished taking transmission apart to see if anything inside was stripped out. Seemed like there was some play in one of the cylinders but new one purchased also seems the same so now not sure if there was anything wrong with it. Putting it all back together now and hoping for the best.

 

@DDUF must be very frustrating after all this work. so I am assuming that you saw the output shaft spinning with drive handle down. I would suspect that countershaft also but you said it was new. I am wondering if that small gears in the box were oriented the correct way.?In the manual it shows which way those small gears go on the shafts so that they mesh properly.

this is from manual showing the small gear orientation.

 

We have 2 of these machines and I plan to make a pre-emptive strike on the lube thing. I like Lucas red-n-tacky but as NGLI-2 it's probably a bit heavy

Thinking maybe some moly/EP CV boot grease in a tube to inject? I would think that once greased with enough product it should be good to go for many years to come.

 

Thanks for the diagram but yes they’re in correctly. Recently found that the ball check valves had the balls dislodged and they clogged the two ports. Got them back out and put back as they should have been but still not working. At a loss at this point.

 

I'm confused also. the out put shaft is spinning with drive handle locked down? maybe @JnC can chime in on this. he wrote the tutorial on both the right side and hydro sticky on the Honda sub forum.

 

If the HST output shaft is turning as you engage the drive clutch yet the machine isnt moving AND all the parts inside the gear box are new then following are the things I'd check:


1) Are the clevis pins present in both the front drive sprockets? As comical as it may sound but I have purchased a machine in the past that was advertised to have a dead gearbox only to find out later that it was just missing/sheared clevis pins in the drive sprockets.



2) Is the small plastic bush present part # 4.


3) Check the sequence of how the driveshaft is assembled, it needs to be part #s 16, 12, 23, 12, 6 rather than 23, 16, 12, 12, 6.



4) Chipped teeth on any of the gears?



Would really like to see some pictures to help advise a bit better on rectifying the issue.

 

I thought about asking about the pins on the drive wheels but thought the odds would be too great that both would be missing. yes , one all the time but both ? yes it could happen.

plus your other points are excellent. did not even think of #3. thanks.

 

Turns out the cylinder we had purchased was defective. Now with a new one it’s working again. Only issue we have now is that it works for awhile but then stops. We have to leave it tipped up on the bucket for abit before it’ll work again. We’ve bled it many times now so find it hard to believe that there’s still air in there but not sure what else it would be.

 

If you had air in it the first time and did not bleed it properly like the factory manual shows, you could possibly have some premature wear/damage to a piston and cylinder/motor/pump block from it not being bled all the way the first time.
It will operate when it is cold, but after it heats up, it will slow down and if that is the problem, you may have some damage there.
It is so critical to bleed them properly the first time before you start the engine and engage the drive, or you can have some serious damage in a hurry.
From just tipping the machine over when working on it if the fluid was drained, it could be air bound. You have to bleed them like the manual tells you to first depending on how far you took things apart.
If you only worked on the right side gear box and didn't drain anything from the hydro unit, you might just have a little air in it that is bubbling.
Switch the release lever to the released/dis-engaged position and try running it forward and reverse, then re-engage it, sometimes that helps, but if you drained the oil out of the hydro system, you have to bench bleed it first before you put it back in the chassis and follow all the steps in the manual. Make sure you use the correct oil also.