I try to store mine empty, but sometimes I get lazy and end up storing them half full. I have never used any stabilizer in anything except when the 2 stroke oil has some in it.

That was actually a pretty good slide show they set up. Would prefer forward/backward arrows on it though. One other reason to store full is for engines with metal fuel tanks. It will help prevent them from rusting.

 

If you store it with fuel definitely use stabilizer and run it a bit with the stabilized fuel if you will keep it in your tank and engine.


This is a help as well:

and this:

Here is what snowblowers direct says:

Snow Blower Covers


How to Properly Store Your Snow Blower

There aren't many things worse than getting the first big snow fall of the year, going to your garage to fire up your snow blower and having it sputter.

The best way to ensure your snow blower starts in the winter is to store it properly in the spring.

If you follow these two simple steps, your snow blower will ready when you are next winter.

Run the Fuel Dry
It will be six months or more before you use your snow blower again.

Don’t even waste your time adding fuel stabilizer to your gasoline at the end of the season. Instead, remove all the fuel from the tank so the carburetor and fuel lines don't gum up.

Take your snow blower outside and run the gas tank dry. Try to start it again just to make sure that all of the fuel is out of the system.

Cover It
You spent hundreds of dollars on your snow blower. Why not spend a little extra money for a quality cover?

We carry two cover sizes. You simply select the cover based on the width of your auger.

Small covers are designed for all single-stage and smaller two-stage snow blowers with an auger diameter of 24-inches or less.

Large covers are built for two-stage snow blower greater than 25-inches wide.

These covers are specifically designed to fit snow blowers. They also are designed to stay on the machine, usually by an elastic cord built into the bottom. These covers will prevent sun damage and dust from harming your machine.


You pick how you want to store it...seems to be two schools of thought on this one!

I would say go with how your manual recommends how to store it if it is more recent.

Otherwise I would err on the side of caution and drain it empty method.


Lastly here is a briggs storage checklist for offseason which can be used for different types of equipment although they use mower as an example:

Storing Your Equipment





Perform some simple seasonal storage and startup maintenance in the spring, fall or whenever you store your equipment for prolonged periods of time. Use our handy equipment storage checklist to help you store your equipment properly.
Equipment Storage Checklist
Fuel

• Top off the fuel tank before storing.
• Filling the tank helps prevent moisture from condensing in your fuel tank, and stops rust and scale before it starts.

Before you fill up, add Briggs & Stratton's Advanced Formaula Fuel Treatment & Stabilizer to the fuel.* Then, run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the additive through the carburetor. The fuel stabilizer will help prevent gum from forming in the fuel system or on essential carburetor parts.
Oil

• While the engine is still warm, change the oil and the oil filter (if equipped).
• Briggs & Stratton 4-cycle motor oil is available in two sizes, 18 ozand 48 oz, and is available through your local dealer, retailer, or online.

Battery

• Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal on units "(if equipped)".
• Remove the battery. Your battery should be stored in a cool, dry place.
• Clean the battery terminals using a terminal cleaner, and coat all terminals with a terminal protector. The terminal cleaner and protector can be found at your local Briggs & Stratton dealer, auto parts store, or hardware store.

Cleaning Your Equipment

• Don't store your engine dirty. Clean the engine surface of debris, chaff or grass.
• With the spark plug lead removed from the engine, use a garden hose to wash away any residual grass clippings.
• Once the majority of the grass clippings have been removed, it will be easier to identify a clump of grass that may be interfering with blade motion.
• Using a wooden stick or other implement other than your hands and feet, remove the offending material and wash the deck thoroughly.

* Note: if you choose not to use the Briggs & Stratton Fuel Stabilizer, or if the engine is using fuel containing alcohol, such as gasohol, remove all fuel from the tank and run the engine until it stops from lack of fuel.

 

i've always stored my snowblowers with some fuel and stabilizer in the tank, about a quarter if an inch of fuel in the tank. i usually run them a few times during the summer and most times i run a few of them out of gas that way

 

I always run them completely dry. If the engine has a metal tank i will fog the inside with a little wd40 to prevent any rust from forming on the inside of the tank. I also will pull the spark plug and put a couple of squirts of oil in there and pull it over a few times to coat the cylinder walls. Always stop you engine at TDC on compression stroke to insure the valves are closed to help keep moisture out of the engine.

 

Good info! My '61 is my first and only OPE with a metal tank and I was just pondering the other day on how to best preserve it during storage. How much WD-40? A few 'fan-spray' squirts?

 

Off Season Storage

I've done it both ways - wet and dry. I can't say I've had problems wet as long as I used Seafoam in the fuel. I did have some issues with the red Stabil, which I think is for pure gas, not gasahol.

I've used fogging oil and I've used WD40 in the cylinder and both have worked. If I use WD40, I use the wand and spray inside the cylinder then turn it over 3 or 4 times. I put the plug back in and turn the engine over till I start getting compression and that's it.

 

Up until 3 years ago I would just park them for the summer with whatever stabilized fuel remained. Id burn it the next time or it would evaporate.

Then came the nasy December surprise where the first 5 wet layups would not start. This happened while setting up for the "Santa" shot with my nine Gilsons pulling the tractor that I post on my site at the holidays. I actually had to push most of those up across the driveway to the photo spot. A lot of work went into that picture!

I got them all back by back blowing with the high speed jet removed and running fresh fuel through the carburetor but it was a wake-up call. This E-10 is not the same old fuel.

I now warm each engine, siphon the tank and then run it dry. Decembers have been much kinder since then so it seems to be working.

Pete

 

I dunno.....Never had problems with just shoving my seasonal equipment to the back of the shed. Never has failed to start the following season. However, just a couple weeks ago I mixed up fresh fuel with ethanol stabilizer and some Startron mix. Emptied out all fuel tanks and filled with the new stuff. Started and ran everything for about 5 minutes. We'll see what happens next winter.
My Mantis tillers always just got set aside after their last use for the summer. Just drag them back out in the spring and they always start up. Been very blessed I guess.
I HAVE seen dry storage problems. Dried out gaskets, stuck needles, stuck floats and etc. Just my humble 2c but I won't ever store anything dry.

 

Sta-bil now makes a stabilizer for E10 fuel, its called "Sta-Bil Marine Formula"..I found it in a boat shop..says its specifically designed for Ethanol fuel..(I dont know exactly how it is different than regular sta-bil)

I have tried it..seems to work fine.
although I prefer seafoam.

Usually I store my OPE with some gas in it, but this summer I am storing the Ariens dry..but only because I was working on the carb in late winter, so the system was dry anyway..

IMO, both methods seem to work fine for most people..I dont think it can be said one is "better" than the other..I have never seen any data to support one being better..

Storing dry is claimed to be better because you dont get the "varnish" due to evaoprating and drying gas, that can clog things up..although, when people "store dry" are they *really* getting *all* the gas out? from all the fuel lines, the carb, and everything? if not, that could be worse, because then you have small amounts of gas still in the system, that are now more likely to dry out and make varnish deposits! So if you going to "store dry" just draining the gas tank isnt good enough..you also want to make sure all the fuel lines and the carb are dry as well..even the fuel filter! if that machine has one..

But if you purposely store the whole system with gas in it, with the tank 1/4 full or so, all the fuel lines and the carb stay "fully saturated" with gas during the whole storage season, and you wont get any varnish in those spots, because the gas never fully drys out at all..(I also believe starting the machine once a month or so is a great idea..keeps the gas flowing..)

Also, there is the theory that storing dry can cause gaskets to dry out and crack, but if they are stored surrounded by gas, you wont get that problem..keeps the gaskets "lubricated"..Dont know if that is a myth or not, but it makes sense to me..

IMO, the best overall compromise with all these different ideas is to store the machine *with* gas in the system, for storage, but then drain out all the old gas at the start of the new operating season! then you have fresh gas to start with..

The small amount of old gas can be dumped into the car gas tank, where 1/4 of a gallon of old gas mixed with 12 gallons of fresh gas shouldn't cause any issues..

Or dont drain out the old gas, and just fill up the rest of the tank with fresh gas..then you have 25% old and 75% new gas..Thats how I generally do it..seems to work fine!


Scot

 

I've done both dry and Seafoam without a problem. Sta-bil on the other hand let me down the other year so I quit using that

Paul

 

Forgot to mention Seafoam. That gets mixed in the gas also.

 

Neither of the two snowblowers I have has a fuel shut-off valve, so draining or running the tank dry would be quite a procedure. The thing is, you never know when it's the last time you'll be using it for the season. For me, adding Stabil is the best procedure.

 

After what happend last fall with my 16hp leaf vac. The carb was so bad I had to replace it. I now leave the gas in and run a good marine treatment .

 

I don't have a gas snow blower, but I do have a lawnmower. I now only run non ethanol gas and run it dry before winter.

 

15 years ago my father-in-law told me fuel stabilizer is a big rip-off perpetuated by those who make and sell the stuff, he told me years ago it was needed but there are additives in modern fuels that prevent the need for this. He is retired from working at a fuel tank farm that supplied philly airport with jet fuel and avgas. He recieved the deliveries from the tanker trucks and tested the fuel to make sure it was up to spec. He isn't a chemist or an engineer and has always been something of a contrarian however I took him at his word and stopped worrying about fuel stabilizer in stored equipment and i've never had a problem. Lawn mower and sidewalk edger both with 4 stroke briggs engines and no fuel shutoff get put away in the shed after last use with whatever gas is left in the plastic fuel tank and sit until spring when I pull them out, top off fuel and start them up. 7 year old lawn mower always, always starts on first pull, edger usually takes two or three but neither sputters or surges or seems to have any problems. I don't treat 2-stroke equipment either and it has never been an issue. My 3 year old Ariens blower with 250cc briggs engine has a fuel shut off so after last use I leave it run and shut fuel valve, wait for it to die then pull it a few times to make sure and put it away for the season sometime in the early fall i take it out, top it off and it starts right up with first pull. Just did it this year about a week ago and it seems fine.

 

I store mine with a fuel tank of gasoline and some sea foam in it. I do start the engine on occasion during the summer and I even started it today and it runs great. I do turn off the gasoline shut off lever however since I once flooded an engine when it let too much gasoline in. I changed the oil after that and started it up after cleaning out the float shut off needle valve and seat and stretching the spring to make the shut off valve work better

 

I notice if I don't use the stabilizer I can actually smell the gasoline deteriorating. It has a "dull, old" smell about it. The gasoline that has stabilizer always seems to have the fresh new odor. I also know that my fuel lasts longer with the additives and I don't have the carb problems I used to experience.

 

Brian MC,

The fuel stabilizers of old(red & 15 yrs. ago) would not work with todays gas anyways. You need the blue stabilizer that states right on the bottle "for ethanol treatment". Seafoam as well is very good. I believe a lot of airport gas does not have ethanol in it as well. So no need for stabilizer. If you want non-ethanol gas a good of place to find this is small airports in your area. But verify they will sell it to you first.

 

Brian MC,

The fuel stabilizers of old(red & 15 yrs. ago) would not work with todays gas anyways. You need the blue stabilizer that states right on the bottle "for ethanol treatment". Seafoam as well is very good. I believe a lot of airport gas does not have ethanol in it as well. So no need for stabilizer. If you want non-ethanol gas a good of place to find this is small airports in your area. But verify they will sell it to you first.

I use Sea foam now and I used to use stabil before. I ended up having to have my carburetors cleaned on my Polaris xlt (3 carburetors) now I use Sea foam and I usually add it to the fuel right before I store the snowmobile or snow blower and I run it for a while so I know that the treated fuel is in the carburetor. I have not had to clean any carbs since so it must be working. I started my predator powered MTD last week and it stated on the first pull of the recoil

 

Awesome Gusto! You have to love that.(first pull)

 

I store my snowblower and generator with fuel treated with Seafoam; I do once a month all year round start them both up and let them run for 15 minutes. Both have fuel shutoffs, so I shut the valves, let them run out of gas, and then let them sit for 15 minutes. I then put choke on full and start them up and they will run for a few more minutes. Never had a problem.

 

Good tip kbsnow. I had not heard of your trick with the choke before.

 

I have heard of choking, but never letting them rest for 15 minutes. Usually when mine start to sputter and die I put the choke on right then and they run for another minute or so.

 

the more you weigh the pros and cons about draining your tank or treating it the more confusing it gets. briggs and stratton says to treat it, turn the fuel shutoff on and run it out with as close to a full tank as possible.
honda's website recomends to drain it dry. two reputable companies with two different solutions.

 

I pour some Seafoam in the tank, run it dry, turn the fuel shut-off, then pull the cord a few times. After that I drain the carb simply by loosening the nut underneath. I have only had my Ariens for 3 seasons, but it seems to work. I do this only because the machine is going to be stored from March through December most seasons. That seems like a long time to leave fuel in a tank.

My Simplicity Regent Lawn Tractor is another story, however. I treat the fuel with Seafoam or Sta-bil, run the engine for 10 minutes or so, then call it a season. I do this only because it's going to be stored from December 1st through April. The gas should last for that short of a period. Also, I can't ever seem to get enough gas out of the system like I can with the snow blower. As a result, I like to make sure there is no chance of anything gumming up the works.

 

I fill my tank, add a little Seafoam, run the engine for 5 minutes then shut off the fuel at the tank and let it run the carb dry. Now it's ready for summer. The older gentlman I just bought my 1971 Toro 830 from has used this method since day one and has only had to service the carb once in the 40 years he had it. I'm not going to argue with success.

 

Towards the end of the season I try not to keep it topped off and if we get one last snow or two I run it full throttle all the time to burn as much as possible off. Before it goes to its Summer home I put a very liberal dose of my favorite fuel stabilizer in the tank, slosh it around and run it for about 5 minutes at full tilt. Never had an issue so far in October when she comes out to do her calling.

 

The reason behind topping off the tank is to minimize the area for condensation....it keeps the tank from forming rust inside the fuel tank. rust is not much of an issue anymore with plastic tanks.