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Replacing drive bearings and disc on my SHO 28...

1.9K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  RIT333  
#1 ·
I noticed last winter when replacing my IMPELLER that the drive bearings on the axle (where is comes through the chassis) and on the track drive plate needed attention. Quite honestly, they should have been done before last winter!

In getting to it this weekend I see evidence of so much slop- play that it was starting to wear the chassis at one location!
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All four bearings are desperate need of replacement:
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It appears that I need to purchase the flange AND bearing as one part number (they are about $40 each!)
I was able to press out the bearing from each flange and was hoping just to R&R the actual bearing and not have to replace the whole assembly.

I disassembled the friction disc to inspect closer. I am not sure how much meat a new disc has or if this needs replacing (please opine on its condition.)
Since it is apart I will replace:
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I do not plan on (nor do I want to) replace the friction plate swing assembly but is there a recommended service of this item? That is, should I used a cleaner- de-greaser (i.e.: Brake-Kleen?) Should I take some emery cloth to it?
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I noticed no turning abnormalities, but with it all apart, is there a way to check the differential? Do these ever need replacing? They cost about $120.
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Last question: I plan on replacing the crimp nuts, but does best practices dictate to replace the bolt that holds the flange on as well?
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#2 ·
1) you can just mic the bearings and replace.
2) from one angle the friction disc looks fine, but from another angle looks somewhat worn
3) I would take a fine emery cloth if the friction plate is scratched or dirty
4) that type of differential is usually sealed and lubed from the factory ... note, if you feel it is somewhat dry, or in need of a bit more lube to work smoother, I have had good success with spraying a Chain & Cable Lube into the seams and gears, and it seeps into the differential and works itself in just fine.
5) that's a lock nut, and I reuse them ... and I usually keep the same bolts as well
 
#3 ·
Appreciate the comments...
I do not think I will mic the bearings because I would need to do both inside and outside diameters to ensure fitment and I do not have a good mic. I would have preferred a part number for the actual bearing for my comfort level.

The disc seems to be worn more on one side (at the perimeter) more so than the other... will replace it, was only asking out of curiosity.

The friction plate is not scratched, just seems to appear there is a slight film of rubber "build- up" as if the disc "transferred" some material to it. Will do the emery cloth to clean it up.

I do not think the diff is dry. There is residual on the out side with no indications of dryness (like those bad bearings.)

Onthe lock nut, is not that indent a type that is intended to use only one time?
 
#5 ·
do the bearings still roll smoothly? it would be best to just measure the old bearing and search for a new one. if the measurements are common it should be readily available. it may also be worth cleaning the old bearing and seeing if there is a part number on it.
 
#6 · (Edited)
No, the old bearings are shot.

I did not look for a part number because I assumed I could easily identify it from my parts manual for bearing only... But it shows the whole assembly as one part number. I will look closer tomorrow to see if I can find one.

Guess I could trace a bearing as long as I can align the scribe perfectly down to the cardboard. If I were to do that and measure as close to 1/16 of an inch, would that dimension be "common" (or) close enough to source a bearing?
...or are we talking needing something in the 1/32 or 1/64 range of accuracy?
 
#9 · (Edited)
Checked today and there are no distinguishable markings or part numbers:
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But in taking OD of bearing circumference ~6-1/2"
.... and OD of shaft circumference ~3=5/16",
I come up with calculations of about
OD= 2.069"​
ID= 1.054"​
Would this sound typical for nominal bearing of 2" and 1" respectively?
I measure ~5/8" width.

Are these shade-tree take off numbers typical for a bearing that I could run with them?
(I would get a caliper but ordering would be about 10 days and I was hoping to order the parts this week.)

I see one that fits this description on McMaster's website:
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I would 'prolly want the sealed ones:
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But I can get a 4 pack from amazinon:
 
#10 ·
I finally got the bearings yesterday, there was a snafu with amazon delivery. I did a quick test fit and these should work OK.

Appreciate the comments to advise to go this route as it is a $120 savings. I have an upcoming deadline on another project so it might be a couple weeks before I get to it, will post an update and pictures then.
 
#12 ·
Circumstances, circumferences... whatever it takes (LOL.)

It worked out OK so long as I did not need to get to a 32nd or 64th. Last time I needed a mic was years (decades) ago when I needed to be critical on journals.

As per recommendations, I will pick up a micrometer just to have on hand because it is handy for non-critical sizing.