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Runs only under choke

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4.8K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  peterk  
#1 ·
I have a Ariens Snowthrower h60 7003 b . It will only run if choked. I think the carb is FUBAR. If I have idle screw? all the way in it will run with the float screw one turn out. If I unscrew the idle screw no change, but if I unscrew the float screw it will die. I can not get it to run at all off choke to try and fine tune the screw settings.
 
#2 ·
New carb or remove disassemble clean.
 
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#8 ·
I have removed the entire main jet from the bowl. I do not have a hole in mine like the one in your picture. I have removed the idle jet and cleaned inside. I have also removed the bowl and the main jet. I sprayed up into it to clean it. It will run pretty good for 30 min. then I need to do it again. I am going to clean out the tank and replace the fuel line incase I am getting debre. I am going to get another carb and rebuilt this one incase the rebuild doesn't work
 
#9 ·
#11 ·
The holes real small, these come in handy for the carb, https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cleani...t=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003530&hvtargid=pla-961529771880&psc=1

There are others on the market I just put this link in as it was the first one to come up in a search.
I have a few different kits in my tool box, one with real small wires.
Comes in handy for other things too.
Cheap enough to get.
I have as et of these, maybe the hole is so clogged that I can't find it.
 
#7 ·
why FUBAR?

OEM carbs are better than aftermarket carbs. most can be cleaned and or rebuilt.

plus proactive maintenance is priceless.

procrastinators have bought just about all my tools , toys , kept the wife happy , and pizza and beer for life.:cool:
 
#10 ·
Ok thanks I will look again. My new issue is the fan is not spinning, the shaft spins but not the fan. I am looking at the manual and it looks like there are separate pins for the fan vs the Rake shear shear pins. Luckily I was able to finish. After following these post, I have come to the conclusion I am better off getting this snowthrower up to speed then buying a new one.
 
#12 ·
The 'fan" would be the impeller. :)
I don't know about what yours uses but they should be listed in the manual.
Some machines use a roll pin.
And yes the hole can be real small, clean it up good, blow it out with air if you have a compressor.
I think ( not sure) that they all should have a hole?
Maybe someone can verify this?
 
#14 ·
Do yourself a favor and get into the habit of removing the plug wire when you go in there.
You have to take bucket/auger housing off to get in there to the impeller (fan).
Not hard it should explain in your manual. I can have mine split in 10 mins.
 
#24 ·
As mentioned, the transfer hole is very small.
View attachment 174762
No hole in jet component. Pics included.
That machine looks to be in great condition, built in 1964 based on engine serial #.

Well built and straight forward to work on. After you clean the tank and replace the fuel lines, pull the carb and clean thoroughly, should get you going for now.

Order carb kit if carb internals and shafts look to be in good shape or cheap Chinese one if not. Try to maintain the original carb, it is better quality than the $15.00-20.00 ones on Amazon.

Do you have these manuals? Parts list and drawings for your machine on page 36-38?
Thank you for these. I have a manual, but these look to be complete.
 
#18 ·
Never seen a Tec of this vintage that didn't have the hole (nor does the Tec manuals show any), and this issue is common on older machines, since any gunk in the float bowl hits that piece first . . . fine black grit from old decaying fuel line is notorious for this, and I have had to reclean a couple of times even with new line to get it all out of the system. If you do have a decaying line, the new carb will clog in exactly the same way, with the same results . . . new carbs are frequently a source of new problems and not solutions.
 
#20 ·
Those 10000 series are great machines ... I have 3, including one of those 10ML60D units, which I put the sow B&S engine on. Built real solid.

The XTrac snow tires will make a world of difference instead of those lawn tires.
 
#21 ·
The holes are behind the side Welch plug and goes in to the throat venturi.
 
#22 ·
That machine looks to be in great condition, built in 1964 based on engine serial #.

Well built and straight forward to work on. After you clean the tank and replace the fuel lines, pull the carb and clean thoroughly, should get you going for now.

Order carb kit if carb internals and shafts look to be in good shape or cheap Chinese one if not. Try to maintain the original carb, it is better quality than the $15.00-20.00 ones on Amazon.

Do you have these manuals? Parts list and drawings for your machine on page 36-38?
 

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#28 ·
It happens, I've done just about everyone's screw up on here, twice. My boys picked my screen name because I almost always have one bolt or socket that rolls away and settles exactly far enough under something that I need a stick or extendable magnet to get. I love those old Ariens and am glad you're taking the time to get her back to working.
 
#33 ·
Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I haven't changed the carb yet, but I removed the jets and used gummout carb cleaner and flushed the tank for loose debris. It will start and run and will move a good amount of snow now without choking it. I will wait to spring to do a complete overhaul/cleaning.
Thank you all again for reducing the stress and getting my snow thrower moving again.