New carb or remove disassemble clean.

 

That what I was thinking, just wanted a second opinion. Thank you for your help. It always happens when the big snow storms come.

 

So I got it running. Idle screw all the way in. No change if i unscrew it. Bowl screw with adjust idle . Not choked. I have ordered a carb. trying to get it to limp through this snow storm.

 

You can try taking side idle jet completely out and using carb spray with straw spray right in the hole for a few seconds. Also remove the entire main jet from the bowl. Take a bread tie wire or one bristle from a wire brush and clear the idle transfer hole in the top threads of the main jet assembly.

 

I have removed the entire main jet from the bowl. I do not have a hole in mine like the one in your picture. I have removed the idle jet and cleaned inside. I have also removed the bowl and the main jet. I sprayed up into it to clean it. It will run pretty good for 30 min. then I need to do it again. I am going to clean out the tank and replace the fuel line incase I am getting debre. I am going to get another carb and rebuilt this one incase the rebuild doesn't work

 

Thank you I will try that.

 

why FUBAR?

OEM carbs are better than aftermarket carbs. most can be cleaned and or rebuilt.

plus proactive maintenance is priceless.

procrastinators have bought just about all my tools , toys , kept the wife happy , and pizza and beer for life.

 

Ok thanks I will look again. My new issue is the fan is not spinning, the shaft spins but not the fan. I am looking at the manual and it looks like there are separate pins for the fan vs the Rake shear shear pins. Luckily I was able to finish. After following these post, I have come to the conclusion I am better off getting this snowthrower up to speed then buying a new one.

 

The 'fan" would be the impeller.
I don't know about what yours uses but they should be listed in the manual.
Some machines use a roll pin.
And yes the hole can be real small, clean it up good, blow it out with air if you have a compressor.
I think ( not sure) that they all should have a hole?
Maybe someone can verify this?

 

The manual is showing either a roll pin or a woodruff key. I can't find any holes in the impeller, but if I slide the impeller forward I can feel a slot. I am going to go with the woodruff key.

 

Do yourself a favor and get into the habit of removing the plug wire when you go in there.
You have to take bucket/auger housing off to get in there to the impeller (fan).
Not hard it should explain in your manual. I can have mine split in 10 mins.

 

Cool thanks for the reassurance. I am dreading doing this.

 

As mentioned, the transfer hole is very small.

 

As mentioned, the transfer hole is very small.
View attachment 174762

No hole in jet component. Pics included.

That machine looks to be in great condition, built in 1964 based on engine serial #.

Well built and straight forward to work on. After you clean the tank and replace the fuel lines, pull the carb and clean thoroughly, should get you going for now.

Order carb kit if carb internals and shafts look to be in good shape or cheap Chinese one if not. Try to maintain the original carb, it is better quality than the $15.00-20.00 ones on Amazon.

Do you have these manuals? Parts list and drawings for your machine on page 36-38?

Thank you for these. I have a manual, but these look to be complete.

 

What model Ariens do you have? pics?

 

Never seen a Tec of this vintage that didn't have the hole (nor does the Tec manuals show any), and this issue is common on older machines, since any gunk in the float bowl hits that piece first . . . fine black grit from old decaying fuel line is notorious for this, and I have had to reclean a couple of times even with new line to get it all out of the system. If you do have a decaying line, the new carb will clog in exactly the same way, with the same results . . . new carbs are frequently a source of new problems and not solutions.

 

Pics

 

Those 10000 series are great machines ... I have 3, including one of those 10ML60D units, which I put the sow B&S engine on. Built real solid.

The XTrac snow tires will make a world of difference instead of those lawn tires.

 

I picked this up from my brother in law. It never really ran great. I do like the older solid construction and would like to make it more reliable. I am now replacing the roll pins in the impeller as well as having the carb problems.

 

The holes are behind the side Welch plug and goes in to the throat venturi.

 

That machine looks to be in great condition, built in 1964 based on engine serial #.

Well built and straight forward to work on. After you clean the tank and replace the fuel lines, pull the carb and clean thoroughly, should get you going for now.

Order carb kit if carb internals and shafts look to be in good shape or cheap Chinese one if not. Try to maintain the original carb, it is better quality than the $15.00-20.00 ones on Amazon.

Do you have these manuals? Parts list and drawings for your machine on page 36-38?

 

No hole in the jet, but I did find one in the carb assembly. I have included pics.

 

Is your brother-in-law a big fella, sausage fingers, returns a lot of sockets that break for no reason?🤣
You probably will find the rest of your bowl nut still up in the center stalk. You can get at the hole then if you ever get the stripped piece out
Here's a vid should look familiar to your machine:

 

so now to look for that part and try to get the broken one out. Thanks for the vid. This forum has always been spot on, but when I was looking for a hole that didn't exist I knew something was wrong.

 

It happens, I've done just about everyone's screw up on here, twice. My boys picked my screen name because I almost always have one bolt or socket that rolls away and settles exactly far enough under something that I need a stick or extendable magnet to get. I love those old Ariens and am glad you're taking the time to get her back to working.

 

So to look for the broken part inside the carb if it exists. Maybe the last person to work on it put in a broken part and the other end isn't in it. The to find the correct unbroken part. Ugh

 

your carb doesn't have the longer high speed mixture screw it has a idle mixture screw in the side of the body
do your self a favor and replace that carb with a new one

 

Yes better off just buy a carburetor they're aren't that expensive.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I haven't changed the carb yet, but I removed the jets and used gummout carb cleaner and flushed the tank for loose debris. It will start and run and will move a good amount of snow now without choking it. I will wait to spring to do a complete overhaul/cleaning.
Thank you all again for reducing the stress and getting my snow thrower moving again.

 

Lauson carb? If so it should say it on the bottom of the float bowl. Same.... but different.