[tabora]

Everything looks good, as far as I can see. I checked the battery terminals and their connections and they look good as well. Any suggestions?

With the battery installed, verify what voltage you have at the two main connection terminals. Should be close to 40VDC. If you push the safety button and engage the auger bail, check for the presence of voltage on the leads going to the auger motor. Should also be close to 40VDC. If no/low voltage there, the problem could be up in the handle interlock. If there is full voltage on the auger motor lead, then it's time to remove the battery for safety and delve down to the auger motor. It may just be stuck, or there may be a failed thermal switch or a loose/bad connection.

 

[tabora]

Here's how you access the belt area to check the motor quickly:

There's more unbolting required on the back of the housing to fully access the motor if necessary.

 

[BoMan47]

Here's how you access the belt area to check the motor quickly:
View attachment 208751
There's more unbolting required on the back of the housing to fully access the motor if necessary.

I get 40.1 volts at the main battery terminals behind the battery compartment. I have disassembled the snow blower to reveal all components. I tried to measure voltage at the motor with the battery in but I'm not sure where to test (I took the cover off the contacts block to the motor). Which wires should I put the probes on? And, what is that silver box in the picture. I see the wires that go to the chute motor (which works) but I don't know what the other wires are for. And, why so many? If I put jumper wires on the exposed contacts and the battery directly, could I test the motor that way? I'm almost at the limit of my "skill set". Thanks.

 

[tabora]

and, what is that silver box in the picture.

I would open it up to check out the components.

If you grasp the pulley on the end of the motor (battery out, of course), are you able to turn it easily? Run it backwards and forwards with the belt to be certain it's moving freely and that the bearings are not gummed up or seized.

 

[BoMan47]

I would open it up to check out the components.

If you grasp the pulley on the end of the motor (battery out, of course), are you able to turn it easily? Run it backwards and forwards with the belt to be certain it's moving freely and that the bearings are not gummed up or seized.

There is no belt on this model. The motor and auger turn freely. Which color wire(s) carry the 40 volts, as I am not sure how to test at the motor end with the button/handlebar depressed to see if voltage is getting down that far? Where would the best place be to place the probes? I admit I'm not a pro when it comes to the multi-meter...

 

[HillnGullyRider]

The Belt...Is for the Hybrid version (AC motor), the 40V motor is on other side.
The silver box is the unobtanium Money Box that makes the whole shooting match work
If that's kaput, you need a replacement ION18sb. So you need to exhaust all other possibilities first.

I'm not sure anyone has worked out an aftermarket alternative controller yet, or whether they'd even waste time trying.

PS: You said 2016 right? Is this the early version or the later version?
If it's the early version make sure the DAMN safety key is installed, The late version already bypasses this.

 

[HillnGullyRider]

My theory is that so many people overtax the machine that thousands had safety key issues, enough to make Joe alter the design. So that has me thinking, it may not just be a key, but an actual type of plug in fuse that may get compromised internally...The good news is you may be able to just bypass, the bad news is the keys are also unobtanium, and could provide a valuable protection feature that might be present elsewhere on the later version, but would be absent on a "bypassed" early version...Just my .02 cents... never schooled in electrons<<<<< but I was a contract painter for 20 years, so I'm used to dealing with cleanup on aisle four.

 

[orangputeh]

ouch.....bad omen for the future.....

 

[BoMan47]

My theory is that so many people overtax the machine that thousands had safety key issues, enough to make Joe alter the design. So that has me thinking, it may not just be a key, but an actual type of plug in fuse that may get compromised internally...The good news is you may be able to just bypass, the bad news is the keys are also unobtanium, and could provide a valuable protection feature that might be present elsewhere on the later version, but would be absent on a "bypassed" early version...Just my .02 cents... never schooled in electrons<<<<< but I was a contract painter for 20 years, so I'm used to dealing with cleanup on aisle four.

This is the early version with a key. I have checked to make sure it is inserted correctly. I don't know if it has an internal component and I agree that it is a pretty useless feature, as I have no little kids in the house.

I am very suspicious of the silver box. I took it apart (removed the end panels) and it is stuffed with electronic components. I can't remove them without unseating the gobs of hot glue inside. I suspect that the silver box is the "brains" of the unit that checks to see if the safety mechanisms are active and perhaps if the overload circuit is in a "go" state. I would like to see is wires coming into the silver box are carrying the 40 volts. I could test the wires coming in if I knew which wires were which. I'll experiment more tomorrow.

You guys have been great and I appreciate all the time you have devoted to my Snow Joe! I don't want to be a nuisance, so please let me know if you get tired of dealing with this, or are tired of my incessant posts. I'm like a dog with a bone and I would like to see the Snow Joe run again; but, I'm also thinking I should maybe just toss the thing into the dump and buy something that works. I'll keep playing with it for a while. Thanks again for all the help!

 

[HillnGullyRider]

Your latest description, brand new battery-lights-working chute... This is exactly what would happen with a bad or NO safety key. So, FIRST you have to figure out if you're getting 40V immediately past the key. this will need to be tested at idle/off, and when the machine is in no load, then ideally when under load.
If the key got cooked there's a possibility it's only working intermittently. Until you do this, stay out of suspicious boxes that contain only Pandora's gremlins and planned obsolescence. But, should mere mortals venture where the gods fear to tread, they should at least snap a pic for posterity's sake, and scribble Kilroy was here - SNAFU - awaiting further orders!

 

[BoMan47]

Your latest description, brand new battery-lights-working chute... This is exactly what would happen with a bad or NO safety key. So, FIRST you have to figure out if you're getting 40V immediately past the key. this will need to be tested at idle/off, and when the machine is in no load, then ideally when under load.
If the key got cooked there's a possibility it's only working intermittently. Until you do this, stay out of suspicious boxes that contain only Pandora's gremlins and planned obsolescence. But, should mere mortals venture where the gods fear to tread, they should at least snap a pic for posterity's sake, and scribble Kilroy was here - SNAFU - awaiting further orders!

THE SNOW JOE LIVES AGAIN!!! Your comments about the Key from Hell lead me to pull, turn over and reinsert the key. Where I had nothing but the chute before, I was elated to hear the auger start up AND continue to run. I believe now that the key might have been my problem right along. I didn't try to by-pass the key and will try snow blowing with it as is. It seems to be quite stable, with no snow load. We'll see how it goes with some snow to blow, as it's sunny and 37 degrees in the Adirondacks right now with very little snow in the forecast.

I'll take a break and leave you guys alone for a while. This has been quite a "journey" for me and I've learned a lot about my Snow Joe, having disassembled it completely. AND, it went back together flawlessly with no leftover parts or screws! I can't thank you and Tabora enough for all your help, time and expertise. I was just about ready to toss the thing into the dump; but my frugality won out. I may still not be out of the woods yet, as I still have to see if it works well in snow, as it once did. But for now, I'm good. I'll post a quick update after the next snowfall. Thanks again.

 

[HillnGullyRider]

THE SNOW JOE LIVES AGAIN!!! I was just about ready to toss the thing into the dump;

Yeah, well that's my other theory, You and probably a thousand others are ready to haul to the dumps, when it just the DAMN key.
Me<<<<<reminding myself to visit the local dump with empty truck
These things are an environmental masterstroke.

but my frugality won out. I may still not be out of the woods yet, as I still have to see if it works well in snow, as it once did. But for now, I'm good. I'll post a quick update after the next snowfall. Thanks again.

Glad to help, now avoid suspicious boxes and crikey, don't lose or fry that damn key

 

[HillnGullyRider]

SEE HERE ION18SB Control board
for more KEY issues

 

[Ballroomblitz]

Finally got a faulty Snow Joe Ion18SB into my hands on Saturday, was told the issue causing grief was the auger not functioning similar to the OP. I dismantled the machine to get access to all the electrical components and connections so that i could determine where the fault would reside. Wiring was all neat and tidy as to be expected, started checking for continuity and voltages and everything seemed to be in order. Had ~41 volts at the power control module.

Seeing i had all connectors separated to verify cabling/connectors i ultimately determined that the fault was in a bent pin in the quick connect connector next to where the power control module is located. Took me pulling the quick connector apart 3 times till i was able to fully ascertain that one pin was definitely bent to the outside of the connector housing, i bent that pin back and reinserted the clip correctly so that the pin was fully seated and problem solved.

Snow Joe has a serious quality control concern as a great many people are encountering similar issues, pins not fully seated or wires not crimped properly causing faults.

It isn’t difficult to dismantle this snowblower, i would suggest checking those four quick connect connectors near the bottom power control module as you just may find something similar. I would also check any other quick connect connectors as well if you have the entire assemblies opened up in your troubleshooting to ensure no future problems there.

The control unit on the handle is a PITA till you get the hand of putting all those wires back into the housing with so little room for cable routing. With just a few springs and couple of moving parts in there as well however it isn’t too difficult to figure out, just wish my eyesight was a bit better for those types of things.

Seeing this machine is small and my garage is freakishly cold i worked on this one inside for once as it wouldn’t track oil, grease or mud all round, and didn’t wish to turn on my propane heater in the garage.

Cheers.

 

[nonionizingemf]

Good to see the insides before I open up to take a look, similarly bringing inside. Neat paradigm of thinking being able to do that with a mower and a snow thrower. Anyhow, I picked up a working for the most part Ion18SB-HYB (120VAC-40VDC Hybrid and a Ion18SB (40VDC).

The Hybrid light and shoot doesn't work. The 40V shoot gets stuck and needs a little physical motivation to get to move.

Guessing is a similar situation to the 40V Sun Joe Mower, I repaired to replace the GF's 120V version, where the connections went bad somehow. Though in circuit testing a Zener Diode in the not yet quite hacked out unobtainium throw away mentality save nothing or save not much controller box, made me think that Zener was bad. Turned out, like has been noted, connections I'm guessing went bad unless something electronically latched open or is bad maybe?

 

[nonionizingemf]

Good to see the insides before I open up to take a look, similarly bringing inside. Neat paradigm of thinking being able to do that with a mower and a snow thrower. Anyhow, I picked up a working for the most part 120V-40V Hybrid and a 40V.

The Hybrid Snowjoe light and shoot doesn't work. The 40V Snowjoe shoot gets stuck and needs a little physical motivation to get to move.

Guessing is a similar situation to the 40V Sun Joe Mower, I repaired to replace the GF's 120V version, where the connections went bad somehow. Though in circuit testing a Zener Diode in the not yet quite hacked out unobtainium throw away mentality save nothing or save not much controller box, made me think that Zener was bad. Turned out, like has been noted, connections I'm guessing went bad unless something electronically latched open or is bad maybe?

Here is the link to the video for the Sun Joe last video regarding:

 

[nonionizingemf]

Good to see the insides before I open up to take a look, similarly bringing inside. Neat paradigm of thinking being able to do that with a mower and a snow thrower. Anyhow, I picked up a working for the most part Ion18SB-HYB (120VAC-40VDC Hybrid and a Ion18SB (40VDC).

The Hybrid light and shoot doesn't work. The 40V shoot gets stuck and needs a little physical motivation to get to move.

Guessing is a similar situation to the 40V Sun Joe Mower, I repaired to replace the GF's 120V version, where the connections went bad somehow. Though in circuit testing a Zener Diode in the not yet quite hacked out unobtainium throw away mentality save nothing or save not much controller box, made me think that Zener was bad. Turned out, like has been noted, connections I'm guessing went bad unless something electronically latched open or is bad maybe?

Here are the first images where I see no visible damage or cold joints (which can be tricky not under a microscope at times).

 

[nonionizingemf]

OK, found the chute plug was completely disconnected and the LED lights only have two upper working where I'm guessing the LED's are bad or at least the one lower: