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Remove the spark plug wire and stick your finger in the end of the wire and pull the starter rope. That's what my dad always made me do.:devil:


Honestly, pull the plug wire and remove the spark plug. Put the plug wire back onto the spark plug and lay the plug on the engine where it makes a good ground.
Pull the starter rope several times and watch for a spark across the electrode.


If you have the time run down to the local auto parts store and pick up a spark tester. They are pretty cheap.
Just plug it in between the spark plug wire and spark plug and pull the starter rope. watch for a spark in the clear tube.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Ha, ha, ha. Disregard my previous post. Yesterday, I was sitting in my office between patients when I realized that after cleaning the carb as per Coastie's recommendation, I pulled the spark plug wire to change the plug before attempting to start it up. Long story short, I could not find the plug I had purchased from Autozone and when I went to start the blower, I did so without connecting the spark cable. This morning, when i woke up, I reattached the cable and BAMMMM away she roared. Coastie and his recommendations saved me and my back from having to shovel the eight inches we just got!!!

Thanks so much to all who took the time to lend a hand and happy plowing.
 
Alright Steve! Remember it only hurts the first time! Never be afraid to take anything apart, you can always pay somebody later if you can't figure it out. A couple tips, 1 take pics on your cell phone if it's complicated. 2 You tube videos are your friend, There is a video by a country boy splainin' how to fix ANYTHING. 3 If you drop a piece and you didn't put a tarp, light colored, on the floor before you started take a big magnet from ace hardware on a stick and go directly to the biggest, heaviest thing in your garage and sweep it under it. parts NEVER roll under anything light or moveable. 4 Drive immediately to the nearest Harbor Freight and buy several steel parts bowls with the magnets on the bottom. And heavy duty rough service lightbulbs for your trouble lights. 5 Battery tenders are your friend and pick up a couple of the extra wire ends that you can screw directly to the battery and leave the pigtails tie wrapped to an accesible spot on the bike, car, blower, quad, boat whatever. 6 Buy socket bars so when you get done you can see all the sockets are lined up so they don't roll off the freakin valve cover when you're driving down a gravel road. A cheap ass tool set in a plastic case in the trunk is better then a snap on rollaway filled with All American tools in the garage if your battery cable busts in the woods or in a boat in a gale. 7 LED head strap flashlights are your friend with spare batteries wrapped over the contacts with duct tape and kept in a backpack with a softball glove, ball, and old fashioned wooden bat wink wink. 8 Get a wool army blanket cheap or camo tarp to lay on if you have to fix something and it also keeps dog hair and pecker tracks from your boxer off the front seat and the OLs tight black jeans. A big boxer and a bat is cheaper than an attorney. 9 When you're in the Coast Guard, there is no one to call for help....Press On Regardless...Onward and Upward Through the Fog of the Unknown!
 
Ok, look for my old posts with how to clean the jets on the 2410 blower. There is a black pastic plug on the TOP of the carb It is crescent shaped and it is held in place by the rubber lip of the throttle screw holding it down. remove the throttle screw being very careful to count the turns exactly or screw it in till it bottoms out and then you can re-install it exactly as it was without affectin the idle rpm. Now remove the plug, by using a small flat bladed screw driver. It is held in place by two little o rings around it, they are a friction fit. When you look in it you will see a non- removable brass plug. it has a tiny hole that goes through it and is intersected by a hole that is perpendicular in the middle of the plug(sideways). This is probably your problem. Now cut a small piece of wire out of a wire brush held with small needlenose pliers, and spray gummout carb cleaner and run the wire repeatedly into the jet to clean out the obstruction alternating with sprays of cleaner. You should be able to see a pinprick of daylight fom the transvers cross drilled hole when it pops through. This is called the idle air jet and is a common issue on this type of engine. The hole is so tiny they fill up with varnish from the stale gas. Also pull the float bowl taking care to observe the float pivot pin orientation and us a carb cleaner in the main jet and another small piece of wire as well. The machine will run like new untill you forget to use sta-bil or seafoam at the end of the season! This fix is stone easy as the hardest part is getting the carb off! You already did that. Also, I have had great luck cleaning carbs on running machines with Mechanic In A Bottle.
I specifically joined this site today just to say thanks to coastie56 for this advice. I had this exact same issue and with these tidbits above, I was able to get my not-even-a-year old 2410 back up and running.

Thanks!
 
Hello I’m about 30-40 minutes from you. I’ve been involved in mechanics auto , truck gas and Diesel engines and small engines. I presently work in a full service outside equipment sales and small engine service. I have worked on plenty of machines like yours any others new and used can order any part needed to complete any job.
 
Please help. Want to replace carburator on my Troy Bilt 2410 (Model#: 31BS6BN2711.) I bought a carb on Amazon that said to be a replacement but it is not. The original has a long plastic stick that engages the choke switch. Anyone know where I can get this carb or if there is a way I can rig the one I purchased to do the job?

THANKS!!!!
Has anyone found the correct replacement carburetor. I can't seem to find it anywhere. Mine too has black plastic stick thingy.
 
Please help. Want to replace carburator on my Troy Bilt 2410 (Model#: 31BS6BN2711.) I bought a carb on Amazon that said to be a replacement but it is not. The original has a long plastic stick that engages the choke switch. Anyone know where I can get this carb or if there is a way I can rig the one I purchased to do the job?

THANKS!!!!
I sort of have the same problem but I broke the shaft off the knob but I can't find a new shaft. The housing for the shaft on the carb should come off to be put on your new carb, but I'm not sure.
Please help. Want to replace carburator on my Troy Bilt 2410 (Model#: 31BS6BN2711.) I bought a carb on Amazon that said to be a replacement but it is not. The original has a long plastic stick that engages the choke switch. Anyone know where I can get this carb or if there is a way I can rig the one I purchased to do the job?

THANKS!!!!
 
Steve has not been back to the site since about 2 years ago. Perhaps you should start a new thread to get some fresh input. Post the Model number of your Troy-bilt . . . several folks have been asking about carb/linkage/plastics parts for TB 2410's lately.
 
I changed the carburetor on my Troy Built Storm 2410. The first carburetor that I ordered came wit a bracket (metal) instead of the plastic choke stem receptacle (even though the picture of it showed the receptacle). So, after finally getting the correct carb, I removed the choke stem...there are a couple of "release" holes in the side of the receptacle that one has to push in on while pulling on the stem (almost need 3 hands). Then I just pushed the choke stem down into the receptacle until it locked in and voila...carb replaced.
 
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