[SilentHatch]

With the temps in the single digits this weekend, I decided to take on adding two 18W LED Lights to my Ariens. And just in time for tomorrow's nor'easter expecting to dump 12-18" here in S NH. This was my first time soldering so I had a bunch of retries. And some redos after forgetting to put on the heat shrink first! So I don't overload the stator, I ended up adding a switch for each LED so I could turn on one LED while having the hand warmers on. Or two LEDs on with the hand warmers off. Each LED is attached with waterproof plugs in case I need to swap one out. I also added a plug to the halogen light in case I ever want to switch back. I added a project box containing the rectifier and the capacitors to keep them dry with lots of hot glue to keep things in place.

Thank you to all that have offered advice! I read them all and some several times!

Those are the exact style lights I used to have; great work!
Thanks for posting the picture we all care about, the lights outside at night hahaha ⛄

 

[SilentHatch]

Anyone do this on a Troy Bilt Storm 2410? I've got a 2011 model and I don't see a stator wire near the electric start. Thanks!

Got your model number and serial number?
I'm sure others can help do some research for a wiring plan.

Does your blower currently have a light?

Any pics you have or could take of the snowblower could help as well.

 

[vinmassaro]

Got your model number and serial number?
I'm sure others can help do some research for a wiring plan.

Does your blower currently have a light?

Any pics you have or could take of the snowblower could help as well.

Sure, the model is 31AS62N2711 and the serial number is 1J181B30110.

 

[SilentHatch]

Got your model number and serial number?
I'm sure others can help do some research for a wiring plan.

Does your blower currently have a light?

Any pics you have or could take of the snowblower could help as well.

Sure, the model is 31AS62N2711 and the serial number is 1J181B30110.

Check out this thread from 2014, I think you might be in luck @vinmassaro

Troy Bilt 2410 - Lighting Question

The link for stator is not working in that thread anymore, so I googled a little bit more, and found these two websites that carry the stator for about $50.

951-10719 STATOR-SNOW | Tool Parts Direct

MTD Genuine Part 951-10719 STATOR-SNOW - SLE Equipment


Found some diagrams here:
Troy Bilt 31AS62N2711 Storm 2410 (2015) Parts Diagrams

 

[vinmassaro]

Thanks for this info! I had seen that thread and it sounds like the 2011 model dropped the stator. How would I add this to my machine?

Check out this thread from 2014, I think you might be in luck @vinmassaro

Troy Bilt 2410 - Lighting Question

The link for stator is not working in that thread anymore, so I googled a little bit more, and found these two websites that carry the stator for about $50.

951-10719 STATOR-SNOW | Tool Parts Direct

MTD Genuine Part 951-10719 STATOR-SNOW - SLE Equipment


Found some diagrams here:
Troy Bilt 31AS62N2711 Storm 2410 (2015) Parts Diagrams

 

[SilentHatch]

Thanks for this info! I had seen that thread and it sounds like the 2011 model dropped the stator. How would I add this to my machine?

Gotcha, I don't know for sure, but maybe these videos will help?
It looks like you'll need the stator and a stator flywheel so you have magnets that would generate the charge.
I found your current Flywheel Part# 951-12416.

To go out on a limb, I don't know if anything is compatible but it seems like if you were able to find a flywheel and stator from a 2008/2009 model before they stopped producing it, and it were compatible with your engine, you might be able to swap it out. But that's not an easy question to answer, maybe post up about your specific questions on the Troy-Bilt part of the forum so you can get folks trying to help you there? They may be more knowledgeable than I am, for sure.

repair clinic

donyboy73

 

[vinmassaro]

Thanks again. Looking at parts for the 2008 or 2009 models, the flywheel and stator would cost about $150 so I think I'm going to give two of these shot. Magnetic and rechargable so I can charge them up in the house before going out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3WLVKJ

Gotcha, I don't know for sure, but maybe these videos will help?

 

[Jjshires10]

Got my snowblower set up finally with a bridge rectifier and I am getting about 24 v DC and still about 1 v AC. I tried out the light last night in the storm and worked great for the 30 minutes or so of work. Went out this morning to clean up from the plow and light worked for about 5 minutes and went out. I still have 24 v DC going to the light, but the light won't turn on. When I connect the light to 12v car battery it turns on. Then I reconnect it to the snowblower it works for 5 to 10 minutes and goes out again. I am just not sure what I could do to fix this. I have never had any flickering on the light and my snowblower doesn't have an idle so its full all the time. The only thing I don't have in my set up is a capacitor, but I assumed I didn't need one since my power is always constant at 24 v and I had not flickering. I run from the machine to the rectifier to a switch then to the light. There is a fuse between the machine and the rectifier as well. Any ideas are welcome.

Below is the light I used.
light

 

[orangputeh]

Thank you.
I read somewhere that some 928 Hondas stators only put out 15W - I hope mine is not. I went ahead and ordered 18W pair of flood lights and I am hoping the additional 3W will not cause issues if I have the 15W stator. From the math, I should be using a 1.5amp fuse but I assume they don't have those and I should put a 2amp fuse instead?

i have used Par36 LED lamps that are 9 watt and AC/DC and they work fine without mods.

 

[Hugo Jass]

Got my snowblower set up finally with a bridge rectifier and I am getting about 24 v DC and still about 1 v AC. I tried out the light last night in the storm and worked great for the 30 minutes or so of work. Went out this morning to clean up from the plow and light worked for about 5 minutes and went out. I still have 24 v DC going to the light, but the light won't turn on. When I connect the light to 12v car battery it turns on. Then I reconnect it to the snowblower it works for 5 to 10 minutes and goes out again. I am just not sure what I could do to fix this. I have never had any flickering on the light and my snowblower doesn't have an idle so its full all the time. The only thing I don't have in my set up is a capacitor, but I assumed I didn't need one since my power is always constant at 24 v and I had not flickering. I run from the machine to the rectifier to a switch then to the light. There is a fuse between the machine and the rectifier as well. Any ideas are welcome.

Below is the light I used.
light

Do you know if the wattage your machine puts out is equal to or exceeds the wattage of the light?

 

[vinmassaro]

Just wanted to follow up to say I got this light in the mail yesterday and it is awesome, really bright! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3WLVKJ

Charges up by USB-A or micro-USB and the magnets on the bottom stick right to the bucket. I can take it in the house to charge easily before a storm so it is ready to go. A great alternative for anyone who does not have a stator wire.

 

[Jjshires10]

Do you know if the wattage your machine puts out is equal to or exceeds the wattage of the light?

I am not sure, but was looking st my rectifier and its putting out 24 volts dc and still has 8 volts ac. Anyone know why that would be?

 

[Darby]

I am not sure, but was looking st my rectifier and its putting out 24 volts dc and still has 8 volts ac. Anyone know why that would be?

Ripple ?

 

[Jjshires10]

Ripple ?

Any idea how to fix it?

 

[jonnied12]

The wire from the engine (AC circuit, usually the original wire to existing headlight) to one of the AC post on the bridge rectifier.
A wire from the other AC post on the bridge rectifier to engine ground.
A wire from DC+ on the bridge rectifier to the positive wire on the light.
A wire from the DC- on the bridge rectifier to the other wire on the light.
DO NOT GROUND THE DC SIDE OF THE BRIDGE RECTIFIER.
Don't forget your capacitor(s) between the bridge rectifier and light.


Hope this helps.

Go back and find this post, it includes Scope waveforms with and without capacitors.
It also shows the correct wiring schematic.
Its midway down this page:

Upgrading your snowblower lights to LED lights (Please...

In parallel, but why put 2, just get a 4700ɥf instead...

www.snowblowerforum.com

 

[Evan]

Welcome!

What's the alternator on your machine put out for wattage? That's really what's going to drive your power going to the Light Bar(s). Are you adding one or both?

I finished the installation a few weeks ago but I've been waiting for a good storm to give them a try.

Installation went great and all of the components seem to be working as intended. The plastic where I installed the switch was too thick to use the built in retaining clip so I used a little bit of clear silicone to keep it tight in place.

 

[SilentHatch]

I finished the installation a few weeks ago but I've been waiting for a good storm to give them a try.

Installation went great and all of the components seem to be working as intended. The plastic where I installed the switch was too thick to use the built in retaining clip so I used a little bit of clear silicone to keep it tight in place.

View attachment 175623 View attachment 175624 View attachment 175625 View attachment 175626

That looks awesome!!
Well done, and as long as you are happy that is what matters! Do you happen to have a picture of your wiring setup?

Looks like you have enough light with your LEDs to get flashed by a passing car hahaha

Again, great job and thanks for sharing the pictures!

 

[Evan]

That looks awesome!!
Well done, and as long as you are happy that is what matters! Do you happen to have a picture of your wiring setup?

Looks like you have enough light with your LEDs to get flashed by a passing car hahaha

Again, great job and thanks for sharing the pictures!

The light isn't quite as bright as it looks in the pictures. I stood in front of it for a few minutes before taking the picture just to make sure that it wasn't too bright.

But if it does come down to it, the on/off switch is lit up and easily accessible on the control panel.

The wiring is very tidy (there's a wiring diagram in my earlier post), all of my connections are soldered, heatshrunk and electric taped to try and keep the water out. I decided the use a marrette/electric tape on the final connection to the existing wire from the stator so that it could be disassembled if necessary.

The small AC/DC converted is secured to the frame with self-taping screws and I ended up using a zip tie to hold the fuse in place so it did not rattle (middle of photo).

The small black box (left of photo) is the relay which goes to the lights/light switch, and all the other wiring is hidden in the plastic cowling.

I also made a cover plate for the large hole you can see in plastic cowl near the control panel in my other photos. I had to make the hole big enough to fit the waterproof plug attached to the lights.

 

[AdamG]

First post.... Wow, this is a whole lot of useful information. Thanks! I have some ... questions?

I have a ~2013 Toro PowerMax HD926 OXE (Ser# 313xxxxxxx), which came with a light kit which consists of the stator 121-0362, a wiring harness 120-3062, a mounting bracket and bulb reflector, and a halogen bulb type 899 (37.5W).

My original thought was to get the matching male connector to the female bulb connector (and I found a source), so I could just unplug the existing bulb and plug it into whatever I create, which is nondestructive. However, the Toro wiring harness is reasonably cheap (nearly as expensive as the connectors I'd need to buy), so I was thinking I'd just either hack up the existing harness or replace it and hang on to it in case I need to un-do.

Am now thinking it'd maybe be easiest to get a premade wiring harness (or similar to that link) which uses a switch, a relay, a couple of fuses, and more wire length than I need. I'd need to add a 12V AC-DC converter, something like this 3A one (that's been posted about here before), or this 5A one which is IP67 rated, and wire the output of the AC-DC converter to the harness...

Questions:

1. The stator has four wound posts (see the pic at the link above), but I can't find any information on how much output it has (but it's clearly at least 37.5W). Does anyone know what the output of this stator is? Alternately, can someone tell me (precisely!) how to measure with a Fluke 79 Series II? Can I just go inline between the stator and the bulb?
   Edit: The same stator part number is used on a 928 OHXE, so I suspect the output is more like 60W, but don't know. Help?
2. Does anyone know the part number of the white locking connectors (the output of the stator)?
3. I think it ends up being cheaper to buy the harness, even if I don't really need the relay. Thoughts?
4. Anything else I should know?
5. Am I an idiot? (I'm not an EE, though I wish I knew more about EE)

Thanks!!!

 

[GoBlowSnow]

Deleted. Disregard.