Since it is a single shaft engine it will be easy to replace it with HF 301cc Predator engine. Since you have a 27 inch I would go with the bigger engine. Although I have a Predator 212cc on a 26 inch Montgomery Wards Gilson and it works well. The 212cc is very torquey and it seems to work pretty well in blowers up to 26 inches even. There is no way you can fix that hole with JB weld. Sell the starter from 8 HP engine to recoup some of your money.

 

I once fixed a cracked block with JB Weld and that engine still runs strong after two seasons, but you have one doozy of a hole.

Hopefully the starter survived. The few times that I had to deal with a blown engine, the starter gets hits so hard that it refuses to work.

Other parts can be sold, such as the crank shaft, fuel tank, flywheel, etc..

 

part out the engine and by a predator

 

I'm all for fixing the existing but ****!!! Head for Harbor Freight!!! Get the big engine!!

 

dang! took out the block & crank cover. That would be an ambitious repair to say the least.

Another used HM80 can be had for < $100. Plug-n-play.

 

dang! took out the block & crank cover. That would be an ambitious repair to say the least.

Another used HM80 can be had for < $100. Plug-n-play.

Why buy a used L- head engine when you can have a new OHV engine that is much more fuel efficient and more powerful and quiet too. The 8hp Tecumseh engines were know to have connecting rod problems as you are definitely aware of. The new engines are easy to start with just 1 to 2 pulls of the recoil so a starter is not even needed

 

see if you can find a short block if everything else is good and you have to have a tecumseh

 

you do not know the history of a used tecumseh engine. buy a predator and be done with it. there are a lot of people on this forum that will try to steer you away from them, but they have never used them so dont listen to the crap they will give you about the clones

 

I've had luck with my HF purchases. Mostly a huge tile saw that the pros in the forums crap on but which works fine for me. I've only been reading about the predators tonight but I've seen enought to a) understand the controversy and b) know that I'm the type that will try the Chinese knock-off.

My personal preference...possibly the OP's as well.

I appreciate the input. I don't really have a preference. If I could find a Tecumseh for under $100 I'd probably risk it. Maybe. My neighbor and his buddies are already laughing at me though. They would get a kick out of it if I replaced the engine and blew that one too! So based on that, maybe I wouldn't risk it!

 

Great advice everyone. Thanks. So the question now is the 6.5 vs 8 hp predator. I appreciate GustoGuy suggesting the bigger one which was echoed by nt40lanman. I had been reading that the 6.5 is a good replacement for the 8hp Tecumseh.

I don't need a 27" snowblower bc I live on a small lot in St Paul MN. I use this thing for my sidewalk and helping out some neighbors. By that I'm saying that it should get relatively light use. Which leans me toward the smaller engine. But I don't want to be cheap and stupid which leans me toward the bigger one.

Right now the 6.5 is $120 - down from $250. The 8 is $230 - down from $300. Does the price on the 8 get any lower?

 

20% off anything in store and free light. you can rejet the carb on the 6.5 and get about 8.5hp out of it. the 6.5 really feels more like an 8 just because of the torque they make

 

The 6.5 has the 3/4" shaft which is what I need. I know I could get different pulleys but that puts me into unfamiliar territory. I'm leaning toward the 6.5. If it's underpowered I'll find a smaller snowblower with a bad engine and transplant it.

That rejet is an interesting and I'll keep it in mind.

Regarding coupons - the ones I'm seeing exclude "Predator Gas Power Items."

 

The rejetting help the engine run good in the cold weather since the engine is jetted lean for emissions reasons and summer running. NR racing replaced the stock air cleaner assembly with a low restriction K&N style air filter with a 140 emulsion tube and a larger main jet and dynoed the engine and found it put out just over 9hp with just a low restriction air filter and fatter jetting. I did a free mod on my mini bike I enlarged the air opening inside the air cleaner housing then I needed to enlarge the main jet and it improved the tottle response and turned the Doodle bug into the Doodle beast and I needed to add some weight to the front end because it turned into a wheelie machine. I may even do this to the snowblowers too. Ton's of parts too to hot rod this engine. Billet connecting rods and flywheels rated to 8500 rpms. Check out NR racing Predator stage kit's

 

thats bs, i have used 20% coupons on a 212cc engine in there and they took it, just bring it in and try it

 

I have the 212cc on a 24" bucket and it works well. I'm getting ready to install the 301cc on a 27". I was able to use the 20% off coupon for the purchase, but HF is inconsistent across locations, some accept them and some don't. As far as which to buy, if you don't see yourself taking a full bucket with every pass, I would say you can get away with the 212cc, just take your time on the first pass when you don't have a choice but to take a full bucket. Either way I don't think you will be disappointed with your choice. I think the 212cc is the best bang for your buck.

 

I have used several 6.5hp engines on 24" and 26" machines and they work very well. I have an 11hp on a 26" cub but it is overkill. You can get the 6.5 on sale for under 100 dollars and if you can use the 20% off that puts it near 80 bucks.

Go with the 6.5 it will be fine.

carl

 

So, let me know what you think about this problem. As I see it I need to get some sort of crank shaft extension or drill new holes in the snow blower "engine deck."

Got any thought on this?

And oh yeah, my garage floor feels like the Exxon Valdez drove through here; everytime I turn or rotate this snowblower more oil leaks out of the nooks and crannies.

I put the new motor on the snowblower and it sits too far back.

As it sits it will reach the pulley for the wheels, but not the auger:

You can see the old motor sat forward, almost touching the tensioner:

I could drill some new holes and bolt this thing down with nuts and bolts, right?(Note in this picture you can see the rear "old" mounting hole.

The only problem with that is that I will need to somehow get through or remove all of this stuff to get a tool on the nut/bolt going through the new holes:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/

 

jmkeuning -- I just this week did this same thing -- put a HF 301 CC onto a Craftsman 27 inch that had a 8.5 HP B&S engine on it. Had to redrill the mounting holes, as the replacement was wides at the base. Also had to get two 1 inch pulleys. The hardest part is lining up the engine and marking where to drill the mounting holes. To correctly do this, you need to line-up the pulleys and then scratch your drill spots. Then mount one or two bolts before you put the blower up on the bucket to lock everything down.

 

Yup, been there done that. You can drill new holes, a nice long socket extension should help with the forward holes so you don't have to remove anything. Put the bolts in through the bottom and I suggest you pick up some lock washers to hold the bolts while you set the engine on them. Fasten the rear 2 bolts securely with lock nuts and you can tip the blower on its bucket to fasten the forward holes. On a side note it appears you went with the 301cc.

 

When I was a kid I blew a hole about that big in my Clinton go cart engine. My neighbor welded up the hole and my Father fixed the engine.
My Cousin"s kids still have the go cart with the same engine in it. I think the engine was welded up back in 1968.
I was told it has thrown a couple rods over the years but the block is bulletproof.

 

In 1968 the block was probably cast iron and not aluminum like new ones. I have seen videos of people welding small cracks in the aluminum ones, but not giant holes.

 

That's the 8HP? If it is you won't be sorry. More power is more better. Does anyone know about the tuning on the 8hp similar to the 6.5? If a 6.5 can go 8 or 9, maybe an 8 can go over 10!!!

Now lets talk 13s!!!

 

Not the 8, it's the 6.5.

 

Of course, there's always Ebay ----

Also, just curious..were you using 5w-20 oil ? and how cold was the temps..?

 

...

Also, just curious..were you using 5w-20 oil ? and how cold was the temps..?

I had 5w-30. But that's a whole other story - This snowblower had been idle for a few years. I had run a few oil changes through but I think I still had some condensation in there.

It was not too cold; probably around 20.

 

Sounds like you got it pretty much figured out and will be running soon. You will want to open up the carb jet to keep the engine from surging in cold weather. These engines are tuned for warmer weather.

I don't know about the 11hp predator that you bought. Maybe someone here can give you some guidance so you don't have to experiment and reinvent the wheel.

On the 6.5 HP I put a .032 jet in place of the stock .028 and it seems to be good. Has not gone under 25 degree yet. I will find out at some point how it does in colder temps. I may want to go to .033 or .034.

You may not be able to fit the belt guard on with out cutting some of it but that is fine.

If you have some time and inclination you could look for a 8 hp Tecumseh parts engine on Craig's list and make one good engine out of two broken.

So far I am happy with my Pedator but it has very little use so far.

I will also throw in that the 20% HF coupon will exclude some items like tool boxes and Gas engines. As someone pointed out this may be a regional thing. Read the fine print on the coupon.

If not too late get some Nylock nuts (nylon insert). They never vibrate loose. Split lock washer are not very effective. But better than no washer.

 

...

On the 6.5 HP I put a .032 jet in place of the stock .028 and it seems to be good. Has not gone under 25 degree yet. I will find out at some point how it does in colder temps. I may want to go to .033 or .034.

Is that jet a particular fitting that you swapped out or did you drill the existing jets?

 

Maybe I'm just lazy..I'd buy a used Tecumseh short block, avoid all the conversion --and use 10w-30 oil if above zero deg...Heck, I wouldn't be outside anyhow, if were below zero....But that's just me..!

 

It's not hard to bolt a Honda clone on at all. I would never buy a used Tecumseh block since you would not know whether it was abused or ran low on oil and look what happened to his original engine. Plus I have never had any luck with a Tecumseh running well anyway, that is why I replaced my 5hp one. I did a much harder dual shaft to single shaft conversion and it runs great.

 

I have the holes drilled and the temporary mounting bolts through the two back holes - the easy holes. The front bolts are going to be a real PITA and I am not looking forward to it. The good news so far is that the holes are in the correct place.

I need a socket extension shaped like this:

      ____   ___
     /    \_/
____/

 

I need a socket extension shaped like this:

      ____   ___
     /    \_/
____/

Can you use a standard swivel?

 

That's a good one...show it to a snap on truck guy...!

 

jmkeuning -- is it possible to put the bolts in from the top, so the nuts are inside the unit? Of course you need to be aware of interference onto the chain or linkage. When I replaced an engine, I put in two bolts anyway I could to secure the engine to the body, simply so I could tip the unit onto the auger, and then put the rest of the bolts in. Then you can rearrange the orientation of the initial bolts if that's important to ya....

Another option is to put the wheels onto ramps and while laying on that cold garage floor....thread the nuts onto the bolts.

 

I put in two bolts anyway I could to secure the engine to the body, simply so I could tip the unit onto the auger, and then put the rest of the bolts in. Then you can rearrange the orientation of the initial bolts

That's what I ended up doing. I had a clear shot at two so I tipped the unit onto the scoop and held the engine with one arm and threaded the bolt through with the other, then supported the engine with my knee while I hand-tightened the first bolt. Still holding the engine on my knee I then stretch-armstronged the other bolt through the other clear hole and hand tightened it. (A reasonable person would have voided my warranty on the spot.) With the engine then hanging from the two half-tightened bolts I used proper tools to tighten them home, checking the position of the engine as I went. Once those were done I started on the other two.