Wow, she's come a long way! They've stopped making those exposed augers a long time ago, before lawyers (and garage doors) had their say.

 

That's awesome. Hopefully you can get it running. As for the gearbox, when I spoke to the guy selling it he had mentioned that it was replaced with a friction disc (also mentioned on Scot's page). So I am curious if that's the case or not. Good Luck!

 

The original transmission was not really replaced, everything seems to still be there. What he did instead was to get a used "tractor" 62-63? with friction disc and used it with the blower attachment.
I will post pictures of the entire set up when I start to look into it.

 

That's too bad on the engine. Look forward to the progress.

 

Wow, That's an oldie. Nice project. I like bringing old vintage engine powered
equipment back to life.

 

AWesome!

Good luck and hope it all goes well.

As for the engine, just maybe a hunk of carbon on top of the piston. I've seen this happen a few times.

Keep us posted with your progress!

 

Not too good news.....

Today I had some spare time and decided to look into the 10M gearbox. Not too good news, I have 2 worn/stripped outer gears (for forward speeds) but the worst part is the reduction gears are also shot (lack of lubrication I'm pretty sure). :facepalm_zpsdj194qh :icon_blue_very_sad:

I will have too look/think about the options that I have to bring it back to life......:question: :icon_scratch:

 

Do you think you can use some old front auger gearbox parts (specifically the gears) in that drive gearbox? That part number 10105 on the housing is the same housing number as the old auger gearboxes. Maybe the internals will match up? Obviously the shaft lengths are going to be different, but maybe the gears are the same?
You could always so the friction disc conversion...would be cool to keep it orig though.
Have no ideas on those outer gears though, ugh!

 

That is exactly what I am hoping Ray, to use the large gear of an early (60-64) auger gearbox and its impeller shaft (properly machined to match the damaged one).
I am working on getting a spare 60-64 gearbox (10105 casting numbers).
The outer gears may still be usable, Ill find out about it when I reassemble it.

I really want to keep the drive train as the original design and not go for a friction disc.

I will post as progress is made. :blush:

 

That thing really is built like a tank. You just can't go with a friction disc on that old gal !!

 

:sigh:

 

Today I picked up (traded for the mowing deck attachment) a 1961..? parts Ariens snowblower that seems to have a good working auger gearbox and a "good" engine minus the carburetor and heater box.
Within the next few weeks I'll be taking the gearbox off and see if I can modify it as needed to fix the "drivetrain" of the 1960 10M blower.
I'll post updates as progress is made.

 

I like the way you think HSBfan:wavetowel2:I just did some upholstery work on an age challenged couple's boat (both the couple and boat are challenged with the age factor:facepalm_zpsdj194qh). Money was short and I couldn't believe how much foam is. I went and picked up a CL free listing couch and harvested the foam and reused nearly all the vinyl on the pontoon seats to get them back on the water this year without splinters in their behinds:icon-hgtg: I like that your trying to keep her original, some people don't understand that anymore. Keep the pics flowing and good luck.

 

Nice project. Never seen 10W oil as listed on the engine plate. I guess it means 10w-30.?

On an engine that old can you run Unleaded gas in it with out any issues?

Yea keep the pics coming.

 

Today I got a bit of spare time and started disassembling the 61..? spare Ariens snowblower. I separated the auger housing from the tractor, removed the "jaw coupling" and removed the gearbox with the impeller and augers as an assembly.
I "sort of" know "it won't be fun" removing the augers and impeller from their shafts as they seem to be frozen/seized. I may just "cut off" the impeller shaft and not bother separating it from the impeller since I only need a short section from it, but I will have to deal with removing at least one auger to be able to disassemble the gear box.

I'll keep you posted as progress is made. :blush:

 

A co-worker used this method to free up boat parts. Had a tub big enough to fit the shaft in. Worked great.

 

Thanks scrappy,
I've heard and read about it before and I actually have everything for it except the small battery charger, but I think I will try to remove them using the "conventional way" first. We'll see how it goes...... :blush:

 

He used a large battery charger, it was kicking 40 amps. The process takes time, It was a few days. It was rusty crusty salt water boat stuff.

 

The videos I've watch including the one you posted suggest to use only 2 amps, I personally would not want to use 40 amps on it. (but maybe it is ok).

 

We tried it @ 2amp, not much would happen. This was in a container large enough to hold a single exhaust manifold/heat exchanger for a v8 chevy.

At 40 amps it would bubble all day, for several days. We shut it down at night.

Anywho it did work, and the rust scale that came off from the insides was impressive.

 

Thanks for the info scrappy, good to know.
Maybe I will use 40 amps one day on an electrolisis rust removal tank. :blush:

 

I've used this process myself a few times and within reason I don't think there's any limit on amperage. "Within reason" meaning be sure you're using appropriately heavy wire, your power supply can handle the load, etc. Also be sure to make good solid electrical connections that will stay good and solid, as I think all those bubbles you see are oxygen and hydrogen and a spark could cause a serious "oopsie".

For what it's worth, I think the rust removal is proportional to current x time. So 10 amps for 48 hours would do the same as 20 amps for 24 hours.

 

That's interesting Elaw,
So, if I was to use 2 amps in the process for 20 hours, I may be able to get the same result in just one hour....! using 40 amps. :blush:

I like that.....! k:

 

I've used it to remove frozen augers. I used scrap 2x2 lumber to suspend the gear case into the solution securely. And I did it in a 5 gallon bucket, it's side walls are a little more sturdy in my opinion.

I also used rebar, but I've seen folks use unserviceable brake drums/discs as the sacrificial component.

And one word of caution at using 40 amps in water, make darn sure you turn it off before reaching into it.

 

Thanks db, I'll keep that in mind.