couldnt a couple tack welds fix that? otherwise clean up and jb it.

 

How was it originally held on there?

 

They are press fit. Clean it as it was suggested. Then1 coat of jb. Then a 2nd coat and wrap a mesh around it. Screen door material works well. Then a thin 3rd coat.

 

Do what Orangputeh says or buy a new recoil assembly.

 

I'm wondering if you could remove the whole assembly and then re-peen the fitting from the inside to restore a tight fit. Perhaps with additional adhesive assistance, yes... hmm.

 

electric start?

 

Water has already made it's way in there, how do you think it came loose and popped out of there. Just leave it or cut it off if it bugs you. That starter rope has already been bathed and baptized in salt water and it is still pulling along just find. Another thing to keep in mind is that recoil unit may not be able to be rebuilt. Some of the newer stuff is not. So in short I would not lose any more sleep or hair on this problem at hand.

 

Orangputeh has the right idea, and Todd as well....not a big deal. I know that a mig will fix that in two minutes...as well as JB weld....as well as just cutting the bell off.Take your pick.

 

Tack weld or JB Weld Epoxy.....however likely not a concern to just remove if there isn't a sharp edge on the remaining piece. A dremel rotary tool or similar should clean/prep up that metal for a good and proper bond.

 

Whatever you do, make sure to have a second piece of pull starter rope (for when this one breaks).

 

Also I don't think I've seen mention of brazing here yet... unless that wouldn't work for some reason.

?

 

JB weld putty works wonders. Patched a 3/8" hole in the top of 5 gal gas can about 20 yrs back-still holds. Clean surfaces with emery and mold a healthy ring around the seam.

 

PS doesn't like cold temps for curing.

 

Thanks for all the good ideas. I think the next step will be to remove the recoil shroud and bring it indoors, and then do a few coats of J-B with a reinforcement layer, as described.

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If you are going to JB weld it, You must remove the dirt and loose rust first. A minute with a small wire brush will do.

 

Welding would be unnecessary overkill and possibly damaging due to the thin gauge of the metal. TIG being the exception. Someone already mentioned brazing... But, soldering would be a better way to go, far less heat required. A simple bottle of propane would be enough.

However, material preparation and technique are acquired skills. Someone well-versed in all aspects of metal work could easily bang the task out.

 

I would cut off the rattling part and install an eye bolt in the handle frame midway down and use the eye bolt eye as the stop. You man need a slightly longer pull rope.

 

Well, lacking the metalworking skills necessary for welding or brazing, or a trustworthy soldering, I opted for the reinforced JB Weld repair.

The broken pull-handle "holster" was actually a pressed-in fitting, but clearly irredeemable.

After a full cleaning and scuff-sanding, I tacked things back together with a small amount of JB and let that harden overnight.

This was followed by several wraps of coarse steel wool which was densely impregnated by JB. Wipe a fresh surface coat of JB & let that setup overnight.

Sanding, painting, & good as new. Actually, probably better since this reinforced JB Weld should last longer than the metal it is attached to.

Thanks again for the helpful advice!

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You rendered a really nice repair. Great job!

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Well, lacking the metalworking skills necessary for welding or brazing, or a trustworthy
soldering, I opted for the reinforced JB Weld repair.

There's a million ways to skin a cat! And if one of them works, it works!
.

 

Good Job! Where there's a will, there's a way!

 

I think that part's only purpose is to keep the large handle from drooping so not a critical concern. And as others have confirmed, a fine repair!

 

Well done.

 

I hope you did not remove the base of the cup. It protects the starter rope from fraying as the rope moves in and out. Without a smooth opening, you will be shredding starter ropes regularly.

 

Nope - I thought I may need to fabricate a JB "chute" on the inside to keep the rope from fraying. But the original base was still in good shape, so I just tacked it in place with the first coat of JB and the rope should be fine.

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