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Yeah, a lot of people miss that hole ... I use a bristle from my wire brush .....
 
I'm pretty sure that the centre nozzle does not come out of that particular carb like some other tecumseh. I just pulled out my blower from last year. I use ethanol free gas and run bowl empty in the spring yet I had exactly same issue as you. It wasn't real bad but just enough that it wouldn't run. I think I found the small idle hole on the nut passed a .65 mm or .70 mm pin after cleaning.
 
Clean out the tube with a wire and carb cleaner. Then take some super fine steel wool and polish the SNOT out of it. You should be good to go after that. Take a flat head screw driver and push down from inside to get that puppy to pop out.💪💪👌👌👌
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I tried pushing the nozzle out from the top and it wont budge. Maybe im thinking of my briggs engine carb where i cleaned the nozzle.

Pretty sure the issue is dirty carb. That small hole did seem plugged and took some effort to get the wire thru. Im blowing everything out and there seems to be some grit/residue falling in the sink. Should be good to go when clean.

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Discussion starter · #30 ·
No I do not see anything that looks like a problem, i just went down and looked closer and cant see what you're referring to. Things look good to me. Thats exactly how I got the machine, I only ever removed the carb and never touched the gaskets or the thick metal plate/mount whatever its called.

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Discussion starter · #31 ·
When putting the carb back together I was surprised to see how off the float level was. The instructions I was following says to use an 11/64 drill bit to set the level and the gap that was there was around double that. At first I thought I must be putting it on wrong but after rechecking multiple times it did seem way off. I feel im losing my mind because i specifically remember setting this float previously when I rebuilt it the first time, its where I learned the drill bit thing. Either im crazy or the metal tab got bent while the machine sat there unused.

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I guess that nozzle is not removable.

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One of the reasons I rebuilt the carb the first time was the settings seemed way off. When I got the machine the throttle was not operating properly, the chute handle is in the way so the lever would not go down into low or to the off position. To "fix" the issue I just removed the red knob so the lever can be operated freely. I have seen some people relocate the chute handle to make room.

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i have the carb all back together and set the main and Idle screws to factory settings. Now im just wondering what to do with the screws on the throttle plate, is there a "starting" positing they should be set to or just fiddle with them while the machine is running and after I set the main and idle screws?

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When the float position seemed out of spec, did you confirm the needle seat was fully seated?
Also, does this carb have a welch plug, like in the above photo? If so, when you rebuilt and cleaned the carb did you remove it to clean the passages, most carb kits include a new welch plug? You can usually get away without removing the plug, but if your issue persists you may want to try that.
 
when I set the idle speed, I hold the throttle against the screw tip and adjust for a nice idle 2000~.
to preset it, while the carb is off, adjust the screw till you see the throttle blade start to open
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Put everything back together and its running great. Started right up 1st pull after pushing the primer 3 times and choke turned to full, was running a little rough so turned choke completely off and it ran great. Same as before, choke on to start it but almost immediately can turn it off. After it warmed up a few minutes I did play with the main jet a very little fine tuning it to get rid of some slight surging. Turned on the blower and ran thru the gears around the parking area and it runs great. Im going to have to buy another rpm meter, I did buy one last year but returned it thinking its a waste of money.


When I saw that the float height was way off I did think that maybe the carb cleaner either swelled the seat or pushed it out, so I used the smooth end of a drill bit the same size as the hole and gave the seat a few taps seeing if I could "re-seat" it but it wouldn't move. I also left it apart for the night thinking if it was swollen from the carb cleaner it may shrink back down but it was the same. I remember cleaning a Briggs carb and the carb cleaner swelled one of the non metal parts but it quickly shrunk back when the cleaner dried.

I didnt touch the welch plugs. The rebuild kit was very basic with just the bowl gasket, needle with seat and main jet gasket.

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Discussion starter · #37 ·
Im still baffled about the float height. First i thought I was putting it back wrong but searched around and confirmed I had the needle the correct way. Then I thought maybe the carb cleaner had swelled the seat or the seat got pushed out from me spraying in the holes. I used the smooth end of a drill bit to lightly try to tap the seat down but it was seated firm. I left the bowl off over night thinking if it was swelled due to the chemicals it should shrink back when fully dried but it was the same thins morning.

Maybe I used the wrong drill bit the first time, but it doesnt make sense because the float was clearly tilted way up on that side and I should have noticed it. It took a decent amount of pressure to bend the tab down so I doubt it would bend on its own. Who knows, its fixed now.
 
Im still baffled about the float height. First i thought I was putting it back wrong but searched around and confirmed I had the needle the correct way. Then I thought maybe the carb cleaner had swelled the seat or the seat got pushed out from me spraying in the holes. I used the smooth end of a drill bit to lightly try to tap the seat down but it was seated firm. I left the bowl off over night thinking if it was swelled due to the chemicals it should shrink back when fully dried but it was the same thins morning.

Maybe I used the wrong drill bit the first time, but it doesnt make sense because the float was clearly tilted way up on that side and I should have noticed it. It took a decent amount of pressure to bend the tab down so I doubt it would bend on its own. Who knows, its fixed now.
It is running as it should now? Right?
That is how mine starts, full choke, but I have to open it almost as soon as it starts.
I would chalk it up to you using the wrong drill bit.
Mystery solved. :)

But if anything, we now have a nice thread for those searching the internet on the problem.
And diagrams too. It will direct them to the site.

I never thought that a new head gasket would do that.
But what do I know. :geek: I could be wrong?
 
The problem with the float needle seats is that when they are weak, they start swelling up, extra cleaning solvents make them extra swell up more.

Now hear this, they expect you to always replace the seats unconditionally each time the carb is "cleaned", and you're not supposed to reuse them. I guess this all depends if you have new ones on hand, or not.

Leaving the seat in the carb with solvents is bad. Taking it out to save it and then reuse it is potentially bad. Dammed of you do. Damned if you don't.

I don't remove the seat at all when I ultrasonic. The heated bath uses zero solvents, water soluable soap, and the seats like it.

I believe the chinese solved this stupidity with the seat on the needle now, those Huayi ohv carbs.
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Discussion starter · #40 ·
The seat swelling from the carb cleaner does make sense to me, ive seen first hand what it does to o-rings. I remember now when I was cleaning the pilot jet in my Briggs CR950 theres two O-rings and they swelled up like ballons when I cleaned them. Thankfully they shrunk right back after a bit.

The sea is now bugging me so im going to order a new one, might as well get a few while im at it just to have. I want to change it out, see if the float level changes back.
 
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