Thanks for the 25mm blade adapter part number with a 1/4 key. That information could come in handy for me some day:

114-2774

Do you know the part number for the 25mm blade adapter with the 3/16 key?

 

Thanks for the 25mm blade adapter part number with a 1/4 key. That information could come in handy for me some day:

114-2774

Do you know the part number for the 25mm blade adapter with the 3/16 key?

106-3987. They measure exactly the same in all regards except key thickness. (key is welded to hub)

This is one of those projects I spent hours researching and maybe 30min on the actual swap job.

 

Thanks! I've flipped multiple SR4 mowers over the years, and know about the integrated key on the Toro blade adapter

One of my family members still has an SR4 with a Briggs Quantum+electric start that I gave as a gift.

 

Got asked about the performance, figured I should provide a post surgery use report:

It is more powerful, but it’s not life changing. Cutting performance wise, I’ve found if mulching it can’t make up for a clogged up deck. It doesn’t ever bog/slow down, but in thick/high grass will still clump especially if deck has buildup. I would still say it’s better.

Gripe 1: For me the gas tank is just the right size; It doesn’t run out on my lawn but is dry; maybe has a few extra minutes worth in it. The txp always had about 1/4 tank or so left.

The other gripe I have about it is the Honda takes awhile (about 5 min or so) to fully heat up and get completely off the “auto choke.” During that time it surges some, you’d want start in a less thick part of the yard until it’s fully warmed up.

My TXP was getting hard starting and I basically used that as an excuse to try it. If I were to do it again I might do the Kawasaki FJ 180 just to try something different. I think the FJ180V-_11-S is bolt on with the stock blade adapter, and the FJ180V-_22-S requires the noted blade adapter. The -22 might also need a throttle and choke control cable/assy as well.

 

Very helpful information here. I am also re-powering a Toro SR4 which grenanded its connecting rod. It is a model 20054, with the 125K02 Briggs engine (190cc flat head). With the knowledge about PTO threads and keyways, I'm better prepared to make this work. The original (blown) engine has a 7/16-20 blade bolt, and the PTO takes a 3/16" key.

The donor engine is also a Briggs 190cc flat head (625 series). I quickly discovered the PTO is drilled and tapped for a smaller blade bolt. I expect it will be the 3/8-24 bolt. I temporarily used the bolt from the donor, but the blade doesn't quite sit perfectly centered (3/8 bolt in a 7/16 hole). I'll probably order the Toro part 145-5695, as they are reasonably priced.

The blade adapter (driver) is part number 106-3987 with the 3/16" key welded inside. However, I suspect the donor engine has a 1/4" keyway. I know the correct thing would be to purchase the 114-2774 driver which has the proper sized key. However, I'm cheap and tempted to just use the adapter I already have. Is the sloppy fit between the key and the keyway going to end up a source of regret?

 

I would think(!) as long as the bolt is tightened correctly, and you don't hit rocks, big sticks, etc. the smaller key probably won't matter a whole lot. Not that I would officially recommend it, nor do I have any actual experience doing so.

 

It's almost a year later. I did end up purchasing both the 114-2774 driver (with 1/4" key) and the proper 145-5695 bolt (3/8-24). The repowered Toro is working great; in fact it is one of my strongest runners.