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Newbie Ariens owner, '71 model, some questions

1.3K views 19 replies 11 participants last post by  kshansen  
#1 ·
Hello folks,
I'm in the Catskills area of NY and have a long stone driveway on a hill, last year I decided to get a snow blower rather than have my driveway plowed which always tore up things worse than I could believe. I bought a model 910962 Sno-Thro from a local guy who fixes and sells small machinery. He said he replaced the original engine with a Tecumseh 7 HP. I knew nothing about snow blowers but felt this would be the right one for me. I like the idea of a good quality basic machine that I can learn to maintain.

So far I've had mixed results - but I've learned to get things in better shape, particularly the carb, and once I learned how to clean and adjust it, it's running pretty smoothly. I've already replaced a shear pin that broke, the other one was bent so I replaced it, and 3 carriage bolts that broke from the scraper blade after stones from my driveway got lodged.

This week I bought a grease gun and got the auger and rear drive shaft greased, and I lubed the entire transmission. Only one zerk fitting broke off :(. I also got the tension pulley tightened up. I'm changing out the gearbox fluid now. Thanks to all the YT videos it's made things easy to learn!

One thing I want to ask here - the clutch for the Sno Thro attachment can be really difficult to disengage. It can feel like it's completely stuck in place. But with some real force I can get it disengaged. I'm not sure if and how this should be lubed? See my pic 2, the green circle is the part that I'm talking about.

Another question, there's a pulley that's not attached to anything that spins fast when the engine is on. It's circled in blue. Is this anything to be concerned about?

I also realized my tires are kinda shot so I just ordered Carlisle X-Tracs. I'm so not looking forward to getting these installed :p

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#2 ·
there's a pulley that's not attached to anything that spins fast when the engine is on. It's circled in blue.
your replacement engine was originally intended for a dual shaft application where the wheels were powered by a camshaft driven pulley.

since a 10000 series is powered by a single pulley that drives the wheels as well as the augers, that pulley is harmless. leave it alone.
 
#6 ·
As @guzzijohn mentioned, the green area needs to be lubed and moving freely. It looks a little dry to me, but there may be a little bit of grease under the rust coating. The sliding dog on the impeller shaft is probably not sliding too well when you're trying to engage.
I would spray some lithium grease on the linkages and shaft, and work the lever back and forth so the grease gets down into the shaft area and pivots. That should take care of the stiffness and get you through the season (and probably longer).
I would separate the auger housing and clean up and re-lube those areas as a Summer project.
It looks like the seller (tastefully) painted the outside of the auger housing and wheel rims. I can see you have the differential lock (on the left wheel. This also needs to be lubed so it engages smoothly.
Getting the X-Tracs will make you (and @Oneacer) happy. I have a '73 very simliar to yours, but with chains. I can't imagine you were getting too much traction with those tires. I suspect you will be inventing new swear words during the install.
 
#7 ·
As @guzzijohn mentioned, the green area needs to be lubed and moving freely. It looks a little dry to me, but there may be a little bit of grease under the rust coating. The sliding dog on the impeller shaft is probably not sliding too well when you're trying to engage.
I would spray some lithium grease on the linkages and shaft, and work the lever back and forth so the grease gets down into the shaft area and pivots. That should take care of the stiffness and get you through the season (and probably longer).
I would separate the auger housing and clean up and re-lube those areas as a Summer project.
It looks like the seller (tastefully) painted the outside of the auger housing and wheel rims. I can see you have the differential lock (on the left wheel. This also needs to be lubed so it engages smoothly.
Getting the X-Tracs will make you (and @Oneacer) happy. I have a '73 very simliar to yours, but with chains. I can't imagine you were getting too much traction with those tires. I suspect you will be inventing new swear words during the install.
While you have it apart see to the impeller and auger bearings.:geek:
 
#9 · (Edited)
Over greasing/lubricating that area will not cause an issue.
Try to get some grease on the pinion shaft splines that the jaw clutch slides on, as well as lubricate the components that activate the jaw clutch.
Work the jaw clutch in and out, until the operation smooths out, it should operate smoothly with little effort.

As mentioned in the spring separate the auger housing from the tractor (very easy to do).
Clean and degrease the components and relube the assembly.
Check the impeller bearing, it would be a good time to replace it, if it hasn't been done recently.

If you click on the 10000 series machines in my signature, it will take you to their restoration threads.
They may be of interest/help to you.

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#10 ·
Awesome Ziggy, thanks so much for your explanation and pics. Wow your parts are clean 😀 It's great to know the clutch should be moving without difficulty. This all gives me a solid foundation to work towards.
I had a quick look at your rebuild thread, really impressive! I have to say I may be following on your footsteps ;). I kinda feel like I have the bug in me to dig into it, we'll see in the spring how things go.
 
#11 ·
These 10000 series machines were built like tanks, with well made components, are simple to work on and most parts are readily available.
If you enjoy wrenching on equipment, they are worthy candidates for rebuild or restoration.
An enjoyable project and one that will put a smile on your face every time you take it out to blow some snow.
 
#13 ·
We had 4" of snow overnight, it developed a hard crust on top. Just got in from clearing my driveway which is downhill about 150' long. I got through the entire job and no stalls! The engine was running a bit rough so I adjusted the fuel mixture screw by reaching under the carb while I was out in the driveway, and presto, a small turn and it ran perfectly.
I had a lot of sliding due to the poor tires...I'm so looking forward to getting the XTracs on. I ordered some bent valve tubes from Amazon so as soon as they come I will undertake this awful task :p.
The jaw clutch definitely moved easier after I lubed it(y)
Ziggy I assume you're a Bowie fan? HUGE fan here 👨‍🎤
 
#14 ·
Definitely a fan of Bowie's music and his acting, but my nick name of 40+ years comes from my last name.
Glad the machine is working better for you, looking forward to updates on the machine.
Lots of knowledgeable and helpful folks on the forum, should questions arise.
And we love photos.
 
#16 ·
thanks Sean, I feel pretty confident from the help I've received in this thread. Once this crazy winter ends I'll start to take things apart and I'll probably need some help when I do. I'll be sure to ask here!