Turf saver tires was the norm on the 924 series untili the mid 1980s, after which Ariens switched to Snow Hogs.

To remove those lug bolts, I use a 19mm impact socket and my Milwaukee cordless impact.

A 3/4" socket would also work.

 

Turf saver tires was the norm on the 924 series untili the mid 1980s, after which Ariens switched to Snow Hogs.

To remove those lug bolts, I use a 19mm impact socket and my Milwaukee cordless impact.

A 3/4" socket would also work.

Stick with the correct size socket (3/4" - this isn't an offshore machine) and leave the metric tools for stuff that actually uses it. Nothing worse than tearing up a bolt by using the wrong tools . . .

 

Take a look at the first 2 mins of this video:

It would also be a perfect time to examine the axle bearings for wear.

 

Oh that's perfect! I had been searching for replace / remove wheel, and didn't see this video. That makes it look really easy. And thanks for the comment on the size of the tool needed as well; that'll save me some guess work!

Since the video didn't show this part - is it easy to drain the fluids? I've literally never done that with any piece of equipment before. I know there's still gas in the tank (I did run it out of the lines before storing for winter), and oil as well. Is it going to create a massive mess and/or damage things if I just flip it up without draining first? I'm guessing yes, but hey, figured I'd ask.

 

 

Just prop the machine slightly in the air by placing a box or a couple pieces of lumber under the machine to raise the tires just off the ground.

Take off the rims by loosening the bolts from the wheels .... done.

The mini tire machine from Harbor Freight works well ....

Where are you located?

The XTrac 4.80/4.00-8 are what you want to replace them with, and they are direction specific, with the arrow design point forward, like this ......

 

Check Marketplace for used ones, but you can get them brand new for 35.00 each .......

 

Unfortunately both Marketplace and Craigslist came up empty here when I searched the other day. Don't want to buy used anyway, given that I won't really know if they're super old and likely to break again after just a year or two. And your own link shows them as out of stock But I have found them elsewhere, so I know I can at least get my hands on them.

 

Follow up question: if I go the DIY route (instead of dropping them off somewhere with new tires), should I expect to encounter tubes inside? One place I called earlier when asking about replacement options said "we highly recommend adding tubes", which made it sound like maybe these are normally a tubeless setup. Any idea if that's the case? I'd hate to buy a mini tire machine, buy new tires, and then find out I'm still missing a piece of the puzzle.

 

should I expect to encounter tubes inside?

If your wheels are in good condition, you should not require tubes. It's easy to completely refurbish the wheels unless the rust is quite severe. Yours appear to be fine, at least on the outside.

 

Do what I do!!!! Send them out to get Powder coated🤑🤑🤑 ALOHA!!!!!!

 

They are tubeless .... you don't need tubes, just make sure the rim is clean and preferably primed and painted ....

 

Should be noted that they are not talking about the cleanliness of the outside of the rim but the inside after the tire is removed.
Especially around the inside rim where the tire bead sits and seals.
Take it off clean the whole thing inside and out and paint it up.

 

..... yes, not half the rim, the whole rim .....

Probably good idea to put in a new valve while you're at it ....

 

a I would add that you will probably need an air compressor to get enough volume of air to get the tire seated on the rim. There are tricks to helping the tire beads to seat, but a manual tire pump might not be enough.

 

Yeah, compressor is a must in any kind of garage or shop .... not only for working, but car tires, bike tires, etc.........

I actually have 2, one down in my shop and another up in the house garage.

BTW, on many small tires, you might need a small strap to ratchet around the tire, compressing it to the rim bead seat, as you initially put air to it ... helpful hint ...

 

Posting this for the OP (and others):

 

I don't think a ratchet strap is going to help when there's literally chunks of rubber missing from the side of the tire, sadly

I ended up buying the X-Tracs from Walmart that someone posted up earlier, as they were less expensive than the Snow Hogs I was finding elsewhere AND seemed to be better reviewed in a number of forum posts. Going to let a neighbor do the remounting, as I don't really have the patience or space to mess with the mini tire machine from Harbor Freight. Thanks for the tips, all!

 

The ratchet strap trick I mentioned was for airing up new or good tires that were just put on a good rim. ......

Where did I say to try that on the old, cracked, falling apart tire ... lol ... to what purpose would that serve ...

 

potato, potaato ... tomato, tomaato .... just take the thing off

 

There is an even better reason that I have full sets of both . . .

I don't have to screw with that nonsense . . .

In my world, SAE is still the majority, and comes out of the rollaround the most. I pull metric only when I need it based on what I am working on.

Zero points are scored for trying to force one set to fit all.

 

I don't have to screw with that nonsense . . .

Of course, if you're working on an SAE machine with a metric engine, it's nice to have options...

 

My rule of thumb is using the right tool for the job ........